Showing posts with label Winter Climb. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Winter Climb. Show all posts

29 January 2010

damavand-winter-climb


Winter Climb
Damavand is a popular mountain for summer Climbs, despite its mild climbing slopes and easy technical routes, without a doubt, it is one of the most difficult peaks in the world in winter.
Due to proximity to the Caspian Sea and wet Climate, there is a heavy winter snow fall in the area, further more strong winds and freezing temprature makes winter ascend to this summit very difficult.

Supports and logistics to the mountain is another major problem in this season, because cars can not go up as far as the Camp 2 Base and it is impossible to use mules in the area, so climbers must carry their equipments themselves or hire an expert sherpa.


Mt. Damavand Iran
Mount Damavand Winter view from Polour Village
Photo by A. Soltani

The south route is the only recommended side for winter ascends, other faces are more difficult, dangerous, and risky in winter. The winter climate may start in the region from November till March, the amount of snow varies each year and it is recommended to check the snow condition in advance before your arrival.

All refuge and shelters are open during the whole climbing seasons, but camp2 base shelter and Camp 3 Bargah refuge may need some cleaning from snow and removing dirt and garbage, if you are lucky enough to find them under ice and snow!

For a safe and successful attempt in winter, you must be very experienced and well supplied and equipped, plus good timing and suitable Weathe, well supported logisticaly and prepared for any dangerous and unexpected condition in the area.

Warning
Weather condition in winter could change to disastrous quickly, with wind speed more than 100km/h and freezing temprature bellow -60°C, almost similar to the south pole, you must be well-practiced for such a difficult climate either for a winter climb or ski mountaineering expeditions , and further more be aware that rescue team and medical facilities and support are not around in case of injury or emergency requirement, and you should just rely on a good luck for surviving, so extra care should be taken in winter and it is done by your own risk only.

Reinhold Messner, in 1970 attempted a winter climb to Mt Damavand, but he failed due to bad weather, he realized that despite lack of technical difficulties, is not an easy mountain for hiking and the challenge is highly depended to the weather conditional .

Reference
Read the original comment in Wikipedia in Deutsch:
Reinhold Messner ist im Jahre 1970 bei seinem Versuch, den Damāvand zu besteigen, aufgrund von widrigen Wetterverhältnissen gescheitert; daran erkennt man, dass der Damāvand trotz mangelnder technischer Schwierigkeiten kein einfacher Wanderberg, sondern eine große konditionelle und hochalpine Herausforderung ist.

Mt. Damavand Winter
Mt Damavand Winter Climb, Photo by A. Soltani

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Winter Climb MDG29JAN10B
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29 December 2009

Winter


Winter Climb

Mt Damavand is located in the northern hemisphere and is effected by the Climate of this half of the globe, the winter condition usually start from November or December and last till April or March, the quantity of snow is different each and every year, it is suggested to check the snow news and condition in advance before your challenge.

The climbing grade and Difficulty of Damavand in winter is very tough. There are many winter attempt to this Summit each year, mostly unsuccessful and only a few successful climb is done by very experienced climber. There has been some fatality events which resulted in death and loss of some famous Iranian climbers and guides in this mountain in winter condition.


Damavand Winter view
Damavand Winter view from Polour
Photo by A. Soltani

Difficulty Factors in Winter
- You need more days in your itinerary compared to the summer.
- You need more daylight on the summit day but days are shorter.
- You hvae to spend more than twice energy eighter for climbing or for warming yourself.
- It is not possible to use mules, so you should carry all equipments yourself, or if you are lucky enough you may find and hire porters.
- You have to carry more equipments which is quite a big problem.
- Road to base camp is blocked by heavy snow and ice and cars are not able to go up to the base camp, so the starting point is the gravel road junction1 ( No 5 in GPS ) and not the Base Camp.

Recommendations
For a safe winter climb, all climbers should be experinced, and should have proper equipment to withstand the freezing temperatures in the harsh climate. You should consider spare days in your itinerary to allow safe retreat in case of bad weather or AMS.
- Do not attempt solo or individual, ascend only in a group.
- Good Timing and fine Weather is necessary.
- Be ready for any unexpected condition.
- Do not attempt winter climb as your first effort to the Mt Damavand,
- Only experienced climber who have the experience of winter climbing to 6000m or more may try their luck.
- In lack of appropriate whether no climb should be attmpted.

Gear
This is a brief equioment list, for more dtails see Winter Equipment .

Head:
- Wool or Pile Balaclava
- Silk Balaclava for sleeping
- Face Mask
- Glacier or Ski Goggles with side screens

Upper Body:
- Long Undershirts – polypropylene
- Shirt
- Wool, Polypropylene or Pile Shirt – medium weight
- Wool, Pile Sweater or Jacket – heavy
- Wind Jacket with Hood – 60/40, nylon, Goretex-will double as rain jacket

Hands:
- Glove Liners – synthetic, polypropylene
- Wool/Synthetic/Pile Mittens

Lower Body:
- Underwear – polypropylene – light to medium
- Wool/Pile Pants
- Wind Pants – nylon (Goretex-doubles as rain pants)

Feet:
- Liner Socks (thin) – polypropylene
- Wool/Pile Socks (heavy)
- Mountaineering double boots
- Gaiters – coated nylon

Shell Layer:
- Waterproof/Breathable Jacket – nylon, Goretex – must fit over stacked layers
- Rain Pants – nylon, Goretex – must fit over stacked layers

Pack & Packing:
- Large External Frame Pack – with frame extension or Large Internal Frame Pack
- Pack Raincover

Climb Equipment:
- poles – 1 pair
- Ice Axe
- Crampons

Sleeping Gear:
- Synthetic/Down Sleeping Bag – rated to -40 C
- Ensolite Foam Pad – 1-2 cm

Miscellaneous:
- GPS
- headlamp best
- Knife
- Whistle
- Sunglasses, Antifog
- Sunscreen
- Chapstick
- First Aid Kit, Personal Medications
- Camera, books, paper & pen, etc. (optional)

South Route Mt. Damavand
Mount Damavand South Route

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Winter Climb 2 MDG881008A
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