Warning for climbing Mt Damavand in spring climate
Spring 2009 May and early June - 15 May 2009
Due to heavy spring snow fall in the mountain in spring 2009, most parts of the routes are covered by snow and ice and climbing to the summit is very difficult in May and early June.
So for a safe and successful climb in this season:
- You should be very experinced climber.
- well equipped with winter gears.
- crampon and ice axe are necessary.
- you need a good weather.
- well supported .
- ready for any risky and unexpected condition in Mt Damavand.
Warning 1 - to Foreign Climbers
Please be advised it is not recommended to use any unidentified place as your resting place either in the mountain or in the city-villages near the mountain. The safest , the cheapest , and the best resting place for you are Iranian Mountaineering Federation Camps . If you need a reliable and trusty resting place when you travel from Tehran to Mt.Damavand I recommend you to use these camps ONLY :
1- Iran Mountain Federation Camp 1 Polour in polour village near Haraz Road .
2- Iran Mountain Federation Camp 3 Bargah , you can use shelter , tent or whatever you like with no problem.
- Remember Camp 2 Base , known as Goosfand Sara Camp , is not suitable for use in summer , because it is too crowded and too dirty . Some local guy may come to you and invite you to local home as guest house or resting places, you better refuse their invitation .
Warning 2 - to Foreign climbers
Iran Mount Climbing Federation asks all foreign climbers who use south face route to pay 50 USD per person as permit fee to its representative and take a ticket. Please do not try to cheat the permit fee by going other ways and by-passing the unusual route because, unfortunately, the representive is impolite and may try to take the fee by immoral ways. On behalf of Iranian Mountain Climbing Society, we are very sorry and ashamed of this kind of catchpoll and we condemn such behaver to foreign climbers by Iran Mount Climbing Federation . What a shame!!
Warning 3- to All Climbers
Mount Damavand weather looks good most of the time in summer , but it could change very rapidly and you may not have enough time or energy to find a suitable shelter. So please have sufficient cloths and equipments with you even during a good weather to save your life in case of emergency .
Unfortunately 2 Iranian climbers lost their lives this summer ( 2007 ) because of this unpredictable weather.
Warning 4 - For Winter Climb and Ski Mountaineering
Remember weather condition in Mt Damavand could change to disastrous in winter, with strong winds up to 100km/h and freezing temprature reaching -60°C in the summit , you must be well-equipped and well-experienced for such a difficult mountain climb and ski mountaineering expeditions and harsh climate in Mt Damavand, and further more remember that rescue and medical facilities are not available in the area and in case of injury and emergency you need a good luck for surviving, so extra care should be taken for climbing and ski mountaineering in winter and it is done by your own risk.
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