14 January 2010


Common Mistakes Part1
Common Mistakes in Mt Damavand Mountaineering
There are some common mistakes among iranian and foreign climbers which are the main cause of unsuccessful ascends to this peak, the errors are done not only by the newcomers but also by experienced climbers too. In this topic we share our experience and give you the necessary tips to avoid these mistakes and increase your chance of success to this summet.

1- Ascending at Night
We strongly advise you never climb at night, even if you see some climbers do so and persuade the others to follow them. Best climbing time is during the daylight only. Recommended starting time from camp3 to Damavand summit is 5 or 6 am.

Why You Shouldn't Climb at Night
There is a wrong believe among iranian climbers whicht recommend to start your climb from camp3 towards the summit at night, they have mainly two resons for their decision:

A- They insist that the sooner you reach the top the less sulfuric gas you smell because of Volcanic Activity!
This is totaly wrong. The amount of sulfur gas smell or emission is not depend on the time of the day, it depend mainly on the wind direction and speed. They are worried too much, it is just a Mt Damavand nervousness!

B- They mention that you need more time on the summit day.
This is wrong too, if you start at 5 or 6 am, after a successful ascend you have enough time to return back even to Tehran, (but it is better to take it easy and rest at camp3 after your return from the summit).

Night climbing will make you tierd very soon because:
- You have less rest so you are not fresh enough to go as usual.
- You lose more energy because of colder weather at night.
When you made yourself tired and exhaust, no matter how much time you have, you will give up.

Further More
- At night you can't find appropriate footpaths and you may make more mistakes.
- Risk of AMS and injuries are more.
- The most important one, the biological clock of your body says it is sleeping time, although you may be awake !!
- About 60 to 70 percent who start at night , do not succeed and never see summit !!

Summer Mount Damavand
Mt. Damavand in Summer

2- Sleeping in Crowded Shelter
Camp 3 Bargah Sevom Shelter is too Crowded and noisy in summer, it is not a suitable place for any Accommodation and Acclimatization, for the best comfort and privacy it is better to use a tent, or you may reserve and use the Camp 3 New Hut private rooms in this campsite, shared saloon is not good too.
Note, camp3 is the last campsite on the Mt. Damavand south route.

3- Don't Carring Heavy Equipments
If you carry heavy equipments yourself, from base camp to camp3, this will make you very tired and will effect you climb timing in the next day and cause some problem in the summit day.
Despite the fact that the mule-men are not so friendly and tolerable, and their price seem to be expensive, it is important to use mule and porters.

4- Insufficient info on Mt Damavand
If you are a newcomer and this is your first attempt to this mountain, you better first read the following pages, How To Climb, Timing, Itinerary, Maps, GPS Landmark. Use of an experienced guide or a reliable coach is recommended.

5- Acclimatization and AMS
Acclimatization is the major challenge of Mt Damavad, it is necessary to have a suitable acclimatization before your attempt, this will increases you chance of success and decrease the risk of Mountain Sickness.
Note camp2 base ist not recommended for acclimatization.

6- Bad Weather
Climbing to the summit in bad weather is impossible for any team, when the weather is not good enough, do not leave your camp and do not atempt climbig, it is recommended to have an extra day in your itinerary for bad weather.

7- Insufficient Equipment
To enjoy a safe ascend to the summit, it is crucial to bring the proper Equipmen. Mt Damavand weather is good usually in summer, but it may change rapidly, have enough cloths and equipments even during a good day to save your life in case of emergency .

Don't be scared of sulfur gas, make a small mask, add some vinegar to a handkerchief ,it helps you alot !

damavand sulfur gasand vinegar mask
Vinegar Mask for Damavand Sulfur Gas

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Common Mistakes MDG15JAN10B
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