27 January 2010

damavand-routes


Routes
Mt Damavand has 16 identified climbing routes on different faces with various climbing grades and difficulties, four of these routes are common for climbing, north, east, west and the south, each with a shelter/refuge at about 4000m, the north face which is the most difficult side has an extra shelter at 5000m. There are also some risky and none safe routes which are of less significant.

South Route
The south routh is the most popular side and many climber prefer to ascend from this face because it has some advantages such as very good huts, easy and quick accessibility and approach from Tehran, it is almost a shortcut to the mountain.

Difficulty and climbing grade
Route type is basic mountaineering, moderate walk-up and easy descend.

Campsites
Camp 1 Polour Hut
Camp 1 Reyneh Hut
Camp 2 Base Shelter, Goosfand Sara, Mosque
Camp 3 Bargah Sevom Shelter,
Camp 3 New Hut

How to go there
Tehran> Haraz Road> Polour Village> Camp1 Plour Hut> Base Camp
or
Mazandaran Province> Haraz Road> Reyneh Town> Camp1 Reyneh> Base Camp

Note
Most climbers who ascend to the summit from West, North East, or North Face prefer to descent from south face because of its easy descend footpaths !!


South Route Map Damavand
Mount Damavand South Route Map

West Route
This route has a very long access by car to the starting point and it is the second popular side of the mountain, but the distance from starting point to the Simorgh Camp is quite short.

Difficulty and climbing grade
It is a basic mountaineering, moderate walk-up, basic snow and cold, difficult descend.
(Farsi name for this camp is Panagah Simorgh).

Campsite
There is a new double stage shelter/refuge called Simorgh at about 4200m in this area.

How to go there
Tehran > Haraz Road> Polour Village> Camp1 Plour Hut> Simorgh Shelter

Note
Simorgh means Roc, the name comes from Iranian tales and refers to a gigantic legendary bird, said to carry off animals as big as elephants for his food.

East Route
This route also called the North-East Ridge, is the longest route to the summit and the third popular side of the mountain.

Difficulty and climbing grade
Route type is mountaineering with difficulty, hard ascend cold and windy, long descend.

Campsite
There is a shelter/refuge called Takht e Fereydoun Camp at about 43oom.
Persian name for this camp is : Panagah Takht e Fereydoun.

How to go there
Tehran > Haraz Road> Nandal Village> Takht e Fereydoun Shelter .

North Route
The north face is the most difficult side of the mountain.

Difficulty and climbing grade
Scramble mountaineering, steep, hard ascend, depending on season, cold and windy, snow & ice , difficult descend,

Campsites
There are two shelter/refuge on this route
Camp1 called 4000
Camp2 called 5000

GPS Landmark Table for Mt Damavand south route
Mt Damavand south route GPS Landmark Table

More in MDG
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Routes MDG27JAN10A
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