25 May 2012

Parvaneh-Kazemi-Lhotse

Mt Lhotse News 2012

Parvaneh Kazemi Conquered Mt Lhotse
Parvaneh Kazemi Conquered Mount Lhotse 8,516 m immediately after her successful climb to Mt Everest, the Himalayan summit. Mount Lhotse is Parvaneh`s third 8000 m successful ascend.

Mrs. Kazemi stood on Mt Lhotse peak on 25 May 2012 at 7:30 local time, along with  sherpa Nima Gyalzen from Bedin, only 7 days and 18 hours after summiting Everest.

Parvaneh Kazemy is the first Persian lady Hymalia mountaineer to manage two summit over 8000 meters is a single climbing season and just in one week!

Mount Lhotse 8,516 metres (27,940 ft) is the 4th highest peak on Earth (after Everest, K2 and Kangchenjunga).

Congratulation and best wishes to Parvaneh on her return.
Moun Damavand Guide Team 25 May 2012.

Parvaneh Kazemi
Parvaneh Kazemi

پروانه کاظمی بر فراز قله لوتسه چهارمین قله بلند جهان
پروانه کاظمی هیمالیا نورد زن ایرانی موفق شد بامداد جمعه 5 خرداد 1391ساعت 7:30 بامداد بوقت محلی قله لوتسه چهارمین قله بلند جهان به ارتفاع 8516 متر را صعود کند و این در ست یک هفته  بعد از فتح قله اورست است. این برای اولین بار استکه یک کوه نورد زن ایرانی موفق میشود دو قله بالای 8000 متری را در یک فصل صعود و انهم در عرض یک هفته  و 18 ساعت صعود نماید

با عرض تبریک به این بانوی هیمالیا نورد و افتخار آفرین ایرانی

The South Face of Lhotse as seen from the climb up to Chukhung Ri.
The South Face of Lhotse as seen from the climb up to Chukhung

Mount Lhotse 8,516 metres (27,940 ft)
Lhotse is the fourth highest mountain on Earth (after Mount Everest, K2 and Kangchenjunga) and is connected to Everest via the South Col. In addition to the main summit at 8,516 metres (27,940 ft) above sea level, Lhotse Middle (East) is 8,414 metres (27,605 ft) and Lhotse Shar is 8,383 metres (27,503 ft). It is located at the border between Tibet (China) and the Khumbu region of Nepal.

Lhotse is best known for its proximity to Mount Everest and the fact that climbers ascending the standard route on that peak spend some time on its northwest face; see below. In fact Lhotse has the smallest topographic prominence value of any official eight- thousander, as it rises only 610 m (2,000 ft) above the South Col. Hence it is often seen as a minor eight-thousander.

However, Lhotse is a dramatic peak in its own right, due to its tremendous south face. This rises 3.2 km (2.0 mi) in only 2.25 km (1.4 mi) of horizontal distance, making it the steepest face of this size in the world. The south face has been the scene of many failed attempts, some notable fatalities, and very few ascents.

Mt Damavand Iran
Mt Damavand Iran

More in MDG
Damavand hiking trekking and climbing tour. Guided mountain tour Iran. Climbing expedition tour Alborz and Zagros Mountains. Ski touring and snowboard tour to Iran ski resorts. Mt Damawand mountaineering and climbing tour 2012. Iran climbing travel agent and agency. Iran mountain tourism trip advisor. Transport from IKA International Airport in Tehran to Iran ski resort.

Parvane Kazemi Lhotse MDG12JUN12
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19 May 2012

Parvaneh-Kazemi-Everest

Mt Everest News 2012

Parvaneh Kazemi Conquered Mt Everest
Mrs. Parvaneh Kazemi after 45 days attempt managed to stand on the Himalayan summit, Mt Everest Peak 8,848 meters (29,029 feet) on 18th May 2012 at 13:30 local time. This Iranian lady is the first climber in the world to summit Mount Everest in 2012 climbing season along with her favorite climbing sherpa, Nima Gyalzen from Bedin.

Congratulation and best wishes to this great Persian female Hymalia Mountaineer.
Mount Damavand Guide Team. 19 May 2012

Parvaneh-Kazemi
Parvaneh Kazemi

About  Parvaneh Kazemy
Born: Sep 1970 Tehran, Iran.
Academic Degree: University Dgree in Mathematics.
Occupation: Mathematics Teacher.
Hobby: Mountaineering, mountain guide, photography.
Club: Member of Espilat Mountaineering Club Tehran, Iran.

Mountaineering Ranks and Records
Facts and Figures about Parvaneh
- First NGO Iranian lady to attempt Mt Everest independently.
- Third Persian female climber to ascend Mt Everest summit.
- First mountaineer to stand on Mt Everest Peak in 2012.
- First Iranian lady to summit Mt Manaslu, Mt Muztagata and Mt Ama Dablam.

Mountaineering Experience and Backgrounds
- Over 8000 m: Mt Manaslu (8163m) 29 April 2011 and Mt Everest (8848m) 19 May 2012.
Immediately after her successful climb to Everest, in May 2012, Parvaneh is attempting her third climb to 8000 meters, Mt Lhotse 8,516 metres (27,940 ft) the fourth highest mountain on Earth (after Mount Everest, K2 and Kangchenjunga).
- Over 7000 m: Mt Muztagh Ata, or Muztagata 7,546 m (24,757 ft) in 2010
- Over 6000 m: Mt Ama Dablam 6,812 metres (22,349 ft), in 2011

10 years mountain climbing over 4000 and 5000 meters.
- Over 5000 m: Mt Damavand 5671 m (many times).
- Over 4000 m: Mt Alam Kouh 4850 m, Mt Sabalan 4820 m, Mt Dena 4350 m, Iran.
- Over 3000 m: Mt Tochal 3960 m (almost every week!)

Parvaneh-Kazemi
Parvaneh Kazemi


پروانه دخت ایران زمین بربام گیتی ایستاد
پروانه کاظمی کوهنورد سخت کوش ایرانی در بک تلاش 45 روزه موفق به فتح قله اورست در روز جمعه ۲۹ اردیبهشت ۱۳۹۱ ساعت ۱۳:۳۰ به وقت محلی شد. پروانه سومین بانوی هیمالیا نورد ایرانی استکه موفق به این افتخار آفرینی شده. اورست با ارتفاع 8848 متر بلند تری کوه جهان است. پروانه نخستین کوهنورد جهان استکه باتفاق شرپا نیما گیالزن در سال ۲۰۱۲ میلادی بر بام جهان دست یافته

شایان ذکر است، پروانه اولین بانوی کشور استکه به صورت انفرادی و مستقل وبدون استفاده از امکانات و حمایت فدراسیون کوهنوردی ایران و تنها با هزینه شخصی خود این صعود را انجام داده است

درود بر پروانه بانوی هیمالیا نورد ایرانی
از طرف دوستان و همنوردان او

Parvaneh-Kazemi
Parvaneh Kazemi

Mount Everest 8,848 metres (29,029 ft)
Everest is the earth's highest mountain. The Tibetan name is Chomolungma or Qomolangma which means "Holy Mother". It is located in the Mahalangur section of the Himalayas. The international border between China and Nepal runs across the precise summit point. Its massif includes neighboring peaks Lhotse, 8,516 m (27,940 ft); Nuptse, 7,855 m (25,771 ft); and Changtse, 7,580 m (24,870 ft).

The highest mountain on the earth attracts many well-experienced mountaineers as well as capable climbers willing to hire professional guides. While not posing substantial technical climbing challenges on the standard route, Everest presents dangers such as altitude sickness, weather and wind.

Mount Everest Map
Mount Everest Map

Everest from Kala Patthar in Nepal
Everest from Kala Patthar in Nepal
Manaslu was first climbed on May 9, 1956 by Toshio Imanishi and Gyalzen Norbu, members of a Japanese expedition. It is said that "just as the British consider Everest their mountain, Manaslu has always been a Japanese mountain".

Manaslu at 8,156 metres (26,759 ft) above mean sea level (m.s.l) is the highest peak in the Lamjung District and is located about forty miles east of Annapurna. The mountain's long ridges and valley glaciers offer feasible approaches from all directions, and culminate in a peak that towers steeply above its surrounding landscape, and is a dominant feature when viewed from afar.

The Manaslu region offers a variety of trekking options. The popular Manaslu trekking route of 177 kilometres (110 mi), skirts the Manaslu massif over the pass down to Annapurna. The Nepalese Government only permitted trekking of this circuit in 1991. The trekking trail follows an ancient salt-trading route along the Budhi Gandaki river. Enroute, 10 peaks over 6,500 metres (21,300 ft) are visible, including a few over 7,000 metres (23,000 ft). The highest point reached along the trek route is the Larkya La at an elevation of 5,235 metres (17,175 ft). As of May 2008, the mountain has been climbed 297 times with 53 fatalities.

Manaslu Conservation Area has been established with the primary objective of achieving conservation and sustainable management of the delimited area, which includes Manaslu.

Mount Manaslu at sunrise
Mount Manaslu at sunrise

Mount Muztagh Ata  7,546 m (24,757 ft)
Muztagh Ata, or Muztagata ("ice-mountain-father"), is the second highest (7546 metres) of the mountains which form the northern edge of the Tibetan Plateau (not the second highest of the mountains of the Tibetan Plateau). It is sometimes regarded as being part of the Kunlun Shan, although physically it is more closely connected to the Pamirs. It is also reputedly one of the easiest 7,000 m peaks in the world to climb, due to its gentle western slope and the comparatively drier weather of Xinjiang.

Muztagh Ata lies just south of Kongur Tagh, the highest peak of the Kunlun Shan. Together they form a somewhat isolated group, separated from the main chain of the Kunlun, and also separate from the Pamir Mountains to the west. (Both peaks are sometimes regarded as being in the "Chinese Pamir", and are more closely connected to the main Pamir group than the main Kunlun group.) Not far to the north and east of this group are the lowlands of the Tarim Basin and the Taklamakan Desert. The Karakoram Highway passes very close to both peaks as well as Karakul Lake, from which the mountain is conveniently viewed. The closest city is to the mountain is Tashkurgan, the westernmost town in China and very close to the border with Pakistan.

Muztagh Ata, as viewed from the Karakoram Highway
Muztagh Ata, as viewed from the Karakoram Highway

Mount Ama Dablam 6,812 m (22,349 ft)
Ama Dablam is a mountain in the Himalaya range of eastern Nepal. The main peak is 6,812 metres (22,349 ft), the lower western peak is 5,563 metres (18,251 ft). Ama Dablam means "Mother's necklace"; the long ridges on each side like the arms of a mother (ama) protecting her child, and the hanging glacier thought of as the dablam, the traditional double-pendant containing pictures of the gods, worn by Sherpa women. For several days, Ama Dablam dominates the eastern sky for anyone trekking to Mount Everest basecamp.

Ama Dablam is the third most popular Himalayan peak for permitted expeditions. The most popular route by far is the Southwest Ridge (right skyline in the photo). Climbers typically set up three camps along the ridge with camp 3 just below and to the right of the hanging glacier, the Dablam. Any ice that calves off the glacier typically goes left, away from the camp. However, a 2006 avalanche proved otherwise. A climbing permit and a liaison officer are required when attempting Ama Dablam. As with Mt. Everest, the best climbing months are April–May (before the monsoon) and September–October.

Mount Ama Dablam, The classic view from the southwest
Mount Ama Dablam, The classic view from the southwest

Parvane Kazemi Everest MDG23MAY12B
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18 April 2012

Damavand-Volcanic-Activity

Damavand Volcanic Activity
18 April 2012, By Sherppa

There has been some news and rumors on the media about Mt Damavand new volcanic activity in 2012, these unverified information is widely spread by radio, tv and internet.
To give the latest news and a clear view of what is happening, here you can read the last words by friends who have summeted this giant volcano in early April 2012.

Damavand Mountain Iran
Mount Damavand Iran

Background
There was a reasonable amount of rain and snow fall in winter 2011 on Mt Damavand area. This usually increases the amount of gas emission from the vents in the in following year, also it may increase the hot water temperatures at the flank of southern thermal springs in 2012. We experienced similar events, rain/snow fall in winter 2006 and consequently some more volcanic activities in 2007.

About the Trip Report
This is trip report is made by a group of mountain guides and climbers who have climbed Mt Damavand from the South route on 5 April 2012, it covers the latest information as far as unusual volcanic activity in 2012 is concerned!

Remember these guys are just interested in mountaineering and focused on climbing this beautiful volcano. They are not geologist and nor the experts who studies the history and development of the volcanoes!

Damavand Trip Report
18 April 2012 By Azad Mountaineering Group Iran
This observation indicates a common view since 2007 and signifies Damavand Volcano visually shows the regular white emissions rising about few meters above the summit form the main southern vent. Also unverified new smoke emission is reported on the West face of the mountain by another team.

- For the first time, some new smoke and gas emission is visible and was reported in April 2012 on the western side of the mountain by a mountaineering group, but not verified by other people.
- On 5 April 2012 sulfur dioxide emission was observed on the main Southern vent.
- The southern vent has been active (observed) since an expedition in June 2007.
- This current emission has entered its 5th year.
- The volcano has been on stable condition since 2007.
- Damavand volcano has not shown any signs of major unrest recently.
- There has been no recorded volcanic tremor or earthquakes recently.
- No recent eruptions were observed or occurred at the volcano.
- No new lava flow observed at summit crater or on the flanks.
- There is no ash fall.
- No exclusion zone has been placed around the volcano.

Important Note
- Climbers ascending from the South face are advised to remain at least 50 meters from the southern main vent.

Frequently Asked Questions About Damavand Volcano
You may find some answers to the following questions in this topic or HERE.

What type of volcano is Mount Damavand Iran?
Is Mt Damawand Iran active dormant or extinct?
How many times has Demavand erupted?
When did Damavand Mountain last erupt?
Is there any volcanic activity on Demavand recently?
Did Damawand Volcan erupt in 2012?
Is it possible to climb Demavand Iran without oxygen?
Is there any unusual volcanic activity on Demawand in 2012?
Is there any crater sulphur on Damavand Volcano peak?
What is the latest info on Iran's volcanic activity?

Damavand Volcano
Damavand Volcano Iran
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Mt Damavand hiking trekking, mountaineering and climbing tour 2012. Guided tour with experience Iranian mountain guides. Mount Damawand guide Iran. Expedition tour to Alborz and Zagross Mountains. Hiking club and society and Persian mountaineering groups. Mountaineering forum, talks and discussion. Iran mount climbing federation camps and resorts. Ski and snowboard tour. Information for hike trek holidays.

Volcanic Activity MDG19MAY12
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14 April 2012

Transport-Damavand

Transport for Mt Damavand Tours
13 April 2012, by Sherppa

Transport and Transfer to the starting point of Mt Damawand Iran depends on the number of the people in a group, it could be by a private car/taxi, a mini bus or by a bus.

Transport Mt Demavand
Transport to Mt Demavand Iran

Transport to starting points of Damavand.
Pick up from Tehran airport, transfer and drop off to Mount Damavand first campsites.
- From IKA Airport to a hotel in Teheran.
- Directly from IKA Airport to Camp1.
- From Tehran hotel to Camp1.
- By 4WD car from Camp1 to Camp2 (as far as car can go up).

Transport from finishing points of Damawand.Pick up from Damawand first campsites, transfer and drop off to hotels and airports in Tehran.
- By 4WD car from Camp2 to Camp1 (as far as car can go up).
- From Camp1 to Tehran hotel.
- Directly from Camp1 to IKA Airport.
- From Tehran hotel to IKA Airport.

Definitions:
Camp1 = Camp1 Polour, First Camp. Best starting point for Mt Damavand South and West routes.

Camp2
= Camp2 Base, Second Camp, Goosfand Sara, Mosque, Masjed Saheb Al Zaman.
In summer season, car may go up as far as this campsite.

Mt Damawand
Demavand Mountain

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Transport and Transfer MDG18APR12A
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08 April 2012

Transport-Iran-Ski-Resort

Transport to Iran Ski Resorts
7 April 2012, Posted by Sherppa

Depending on the number of the participants who take part in your team, transfer to the Iran Ski Resorts could be done by a private car, a taxi, a mini bus or by a bus. Transport may be done directly from Tehran IKAI or MehrAbad Airport Airports or from Tehran hotel to the following Ski Resorts and back to Tehran.

Iran Ski Resorts Transportation
Transport to Iran Ski Resorts

Iran Ski Resorts (near Tehran)
- AbAli Ski Resort.
- Damavand Ski Resort.
- Darband Sar Ski Resort.
- Dizin Ski Resort.
- Lasem Ski Resort.
- Shemshak Ski Resort.
- Tochal Ski Resort.

Mt Damavand Iran
Damavand Winter View

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Transport to Iran Ski Resorts MDG13APR12A
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24 March 2012

damavand-winter

Mt Damavand Winter Alert

24 March 2012, by Sherppa
We have observed a very high wind speed and freezing temprature this winter, which have caused many teams to cancel or postpone their programs such as mountaineering, ski and snowboard expeditions to Mt Damavand.

Mt Damavand Winter Warning
Freezing Temprature Mt Demavand, Iran.
-71° Celsius (-95° Fahrenheit) 4 February 2012
By Snow Forecast

Damavand Mountain Iran is very cold in winter, the wind speed may reach more than 130 K/H (80 M/H) and the temprature could drop to below -73° C (-100° F), almost a freezing circumstance similar to the poles, making the condition extremely tough for any kind of winter sport activity.

Mt Damavand Winter Warning
Strong Wind Speed Mt Demavand, Iran.
110 Km/h (68 M/h) 15 March 2012
By Snow Forecast

Winter Warning
If you want to attempt any kind of winter sport activity such as winter ascend, ski touring or snowboard expeditions to Damavand, you must be aware of this cold and freezing weather and possibility of risks and injuries. You should be well-equipped, very experienced and you need a good supporing team too. Also remember, there is no rescue team and medical facilities in the area.

Mt Damavand Winter View
Damavand Winter View
Photo Ardeshir Soltani

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کتاب مرجع مجازی اونلاین راهنمای کوه دماوند بزبان انگلیسی

Damavand Winter Warning MDG24MAR12c
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02 January 2012

Damavand-Ski


Mt Damavand Ski Descend
GPS Track and Route Map for South Face

2 January 2012 by Sherppa
Happy New Year!

Ski Mountaineering to Damavand Summit
In this topic you can find necessary GPS tracks and route maps for Mt Damavand skiing and snowboarding. The Classic south route has an off-piste mild ski slope suitable for ski and snowboard downhill descent. These data are useful and would help you to find your way and save your life especially in case of bad weather and foggy condition.
Visit also: GPS Landmark.

Download Damavand South Route GPS track files in GPX format
By Garmin Oregon 550 handheld gps navigator
(To save battery, some tracks are recored during the descend!)

Camp3 to Summit GPS Ascend Track : Download
Summit to Camp3 Descend Track: Download
Full Size Map Camp3 to Summit: Download

Camp3 to Summit GPS Track and Map Damavand South Route
Damavand Camp3 Bargah Sevom to the Summit Route Map
Green line for ascend from Old Shelter or New Hut to the top
Red line for descend on ski from Mt Damavand peak to Camp3
By A. Soltani

If you want to ski Damavand by yourself and without guide, here you can find and download the necessary maps and gps tracks for the best ski trail. If you intend to go as high as the summit of Mt Damavand, ie 5671 meters and descend down by ski from the peak, you should be very strong skier and experienced climber too.

GPS Track Camp2 to Camp3: Download
Full Size Map Camp2 to Camp3: Download

Damavand Camp2 to Camp3 GPS Track and Map
Damavand Camp2 to Camp3 GPS Track and Map
By Ardeshir Soltani

Dependent upon the amount of snowfall in the area, the suggested timing for ski mountaineering and snowboarding on Mt Damavand is from December to March, it is also possible to ski from November to May from time to time. Before you set out to the area and begin your ski expedition, it is a good idea to get the latest snow news and check the snow condition.

Track Camp1 to Camp2: Download
Full Size Map Camp1 to Camp2: Download

Damavand Camp1 to Camp2 GPS Track and Map
Damavand Camp1 to Camp2 GPS Track and Map
Drive the Gravel Road by car in summer or walk and on ski in winter
By Sherppa

South route is the most favourite route to ascend Damavand either on ski or on feet, and the recommended starting point is Camp1 Polour Hut. Other sides are more difficult and dangerous. Remember there is no gondola, cable car, telecabin or chair lift in this resort, so you should ascend on feet or on ski.

Tehran> Camp1 Polour> Camp2 Base> Camp3 Bargah Sevom> Damavand Summit.

Download the full size images in jpg format.
Damawand Map1: Download

Damavand-Map
Mount Damavand Map
By A. Soltani

Download GPS Track in GPX format
IKA Airport to Camp1 Polour: Download

Full Size Map IKA Airport to Camp1 Polour: Download

Damavand
IKA Airport to Damavand Camp1 Polour Map
By A. Soltani


Damavand
Difficulty Mount Damavand Iran
By A. Soltani


Damavand
Mount Damavand Map


Damavand
Mount Damavand Winter view
By A. Soltani

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GPS Track and Map Mt Damavand Ski MDG02JAN12
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