02 February 2010

how-to-climb-damavand


How To Climb Mt Damavand
3 days climb from south face in detail

We would like to share our experience with the newcomers to teach them how to climb Mt Damavand. If you have ordinary climbing skills and common equipments and you are in a good physical conditions then you have a good chance of success, the southern face is not a technical route, it is merely a tough and long trek, in summer 2 to 4 days is usually enough for round trip. Visit also Routes.

Summer is the best season for ordinary climbers to tackle the mount, the suggested months are June, July and August, which the footpath is usually free of snow and the Weather is generally good, but there is one disadvantage, the mountain is crowded, so you need a good Timing to avoid the Crowd, Saturday to Monday are good for starting days, Please note it is not recommend to be in the area in Iranian weekends (Thursday and Friday).


Damavand Mount
Mt Damavand Iran, Summer View
Photo by A. Soltani

It is possible to ascent in two different ways:

A – 3 days Itinerary
It is recommended for all climber residence or located in Tehran and around the mountain.

Day 1 - Transfer1&2 + Trekking To Camp3
Go by car from Tehran to Camp1 Polour, change the car and by a 4WD car drive to Camp2 Base, and by 4 to 6 hours trekking to Camp3 Bargah Sevom, over night in New Hut .

Day 2 - Climbing to the Summit
Start climbing at 5 AM towards the summit , return back to camp3, rest second nigh at camp3.

Day 3 - Return
Return back from camp3 to camp1 and then drive to Tehran .

Or

B – 3 Days Itinerary
Recommended for incoming foreign climbers who wish to do the climbing as their first destination in Iran.

Day 1 - Arrival + Transfer1
Go by car directly from IKA International Airport to Camp1 Polour, just rest in Polour Hut for acclimatization.

Day 2 - Transfer1 + Trekking To Camp3
Go by car from Polour to Camp 2 - Base, and by 4 to 6 hours trekking to Camp 3 Bargah Sevom, stay over night at New Hut.

Day 3 - Climbing to the Summit + Return
Start climbing at about 5 AM, towards the summit and then return back to camp3. After one hour rest, go to camp2, drive to camp1 and then to Tehran.

South Route Map Mt Damavand
Mt Damavand South Route Map

Transfer 1
How to Reach the First Camp, Polour Hut
Tehran > Haraz Road > Polour Village > Polour Hut (2 hours)
If you travel from Tehran, use Polour Hut in Polour Village which is a shortcut and the best starting point of the south route. There is a montain resort which belongs to Iran Mountain Climbing Federation, you can use it or ask for a taxi to take you to the Base Camp ( goosfand Sara, Mosque)

Transfer 2
How to Reach the Second Camp, Camp 2 Base
Polour Village or Polour Hut > Camp 2 Base
(Persian Name: Goosfand Sara, Masjed, Saheb Zaman Mosque)
Strong cars such as 4WD land rovers and Jeeps take you to the Base Camp, (approx 1 hour). If you live in a city with low elevation. Remember this campste is not suitable for either acclimatization or accommodation in summer, because it is too crowded and too dirty. See also Warning . Start your trekking towards camp3. In summer, You can find mule and porter here.

Trekking To Camp3
How to Reach the Third Camp, Camp3 Bargah Sevom, New Hut
(Persian name Bargah Sevom Camp)
By 4 to 6 hours slow trek you can reach the 3rd Camp, do not carry heavy equipments yourself, hire porters and mule, use the footprints, it is easy to find the footpath, go slow and steady, start in the morning so you have plenty time to find the hut (or refuge) and enough time for acclimatization, use the day light only, never start at the darkness.

Climbing to the Summit
South face has a moderate climbing slop, is not technical difficult, but climbers should be physically fit enough to try it, by 5 to 7 hours climbing you can reach the summit, do not carry heavy gear to the top, it is safe to leave your heavy stuff at New Hut or your tent, only take necessary things with you, do not attempt at night, In a good weather, starting at about 5 am is recommended.

Important
Visit the Common Mistakes .

Tips for the Summit Day
- Before the kick off double check up all your necessary gears.
- If possible check the weather forecast.
- Have only short breaks during the climb, do not rest more than 5 minutes per rest.
- From camp3 upwards there is no water, food or shelter.
- Use the footprints, if you are not sure use a guide.

Food & Drink for the Summit Day
- Eat a good breakfast plus tea or coffee.
- Eat some sweet, cookie , biscuit , chocolate during the way.
- you need at least 1.5 letters of water.

Return Back
After reaching the summit do not stay too long there, take few pictures and return back to Camp3 it about 3 hours to reach the campsite.

Road Map Tehran To Mt Damavand
Road Map Tehran To Mount Damavand

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How To Climb 3 Days MDG2FEB10A
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