Mt Damavand Climbing Tips Part2
Climbing season is different in various continents and countries, for Mt Damavand in Iran it may not be the same as Mt Kilimanjaro in Tanzania or Mt Fuji in Japan. Climbing to this huge volcano gets more difficult as the Climate changes towards the winter and cold weather. We do not want to disappoint you, but it is really though to reach this peak in a freezing and cold condition, it is possible to reach the summit in a suitable weather only!
We recommend south face in summer for newcomers for their first trip to Damavand. If it is your first attempt to this mountain it is better to choose a proper timing such as 4 days itinerary from south route, June, July and August are good months to tackle the mountain and best days to be away from the crowds are Iranian midweek days, note Iranian weekend are Thursday and Friday, (Friday=weekend).
See also: Climbing Tips Part1, Common Mistakes, How to Climb.
Hiking & Trekking Tour Mt. Damawvand Iran
photo by A.Soltani
Advantages of South Route
- You may book and use private rooms in huts, instead of shelter/refuge and you can use better supports.
- Huts are the best places for acclimatization and accommodation.
- You have access to porter and mule easily in summer and you do not need to carry heavy equipment to Camp3 , there is no grantee for other routes.
- Huts are very safe haven in case of any bad weather and emergency.
- Usually rescue team can reach much quicker or are available in case of emergency.
- It is almost safe to leave behind the heavy equipments in hut private rooms on the summit day.
Disadvantages of Other Routes
- Remember there is no hut on other faces and you have to use shelter/refuge or tent only.
- In other routes in case of crowded shelter and bad weather you have to use tent only.
- Access to the starting point of other routes are difficult.
- Drinking water shortage on other faces compare to south classic route.
- Damavand Mountain north face is not popular because of its water shortage and difficult climbing geade too.
- You may find some water on other trails but not in all seasons, do not count on these water and do not expect clean water there, have enough water with you.
Each year we meet different skier from various countries with different and new sophisticated equipments, due to importance and required safety in a ski tour and to match the electronic avalanche transceivers, we usually recommend the incoming team to bring a spare and extra set of the avalanches transmitter with the same type and brand for their ski guide to increase the chance of surviving in avalanches.
Damawand Mountain Iran
photo by Sherppa of Mt Damavand
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Climbing Tips 2 MDG1MAY10A
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