07 May 2010

Damavand-GuestBook


Guest Book
Visitors to Iran and Mt Damavand who have used our services may express their thoughts about the Mount Damavand Guide website and its assistance, you are welcome to make recommendations and comments by dropping off a message by email, this will help us to improve our services in the future and will give a better idea to incomming tourists.

We understand that there are some bad news about Iran in western media, but Iran is wonderful country and the people are helpful and will make you feel welcome, in our guestbook you can read some true practical info from those mountaineers who have visited Iran recently, this may help you to make your mind and experience travel to Iran yourself.

Comment by Benjamin Aubert From France:

15 June 2010
"I spent 2 weeks in Iran with Mr Soltani and it was an amazing trip. Everything was prepared and very well organized. I had to worry about anything. Mr Soltani is a Mt Damavand Expert, he has wonderful knowledge about the mountain and the region. He knows where to go when and everything is clear. It first my first trip/guide in the world and I really like the time we spent. I had the chance to go far north to Sabalan and to see another huge mountain.
Why choosing Mt Damavand Info:
- Serious
- Honnest
- VERY PROFESSIONNAL !
and he will help you to discover Iran as you which with many traditions and cultural aspect.
It worth going to the mountain with Mr Soltani if you wish to reach the summit. It is also very useful to listen as Mr Soltani advice as he climbed the mountain few time ;-)
Allez les Verts"
Benjamin A

Demavand Iran
Benjamin Aubert
with Saint Etienne Football Club Flag
on Mt Damavand Summit, 15 June 2010


Comment by Jaime Vinals From Guatemala:
27 April 2010
My expedition to Mt. Damavand last April 13 and 14 was a wonderful experience, specially because who organizes for me was very professional and kind.
I did my trip thru Mr. Ardeshir Soltani... http://damavandmt.blogspot.com/
Since the moment Mr. Soltani waited for me at the airport until the end of the trip he was concern about myself.
I climbed to the summit of Mt. Damavand together with Soltani's guide Mr. Majid Droodgar.
We did an excellent team with good communication and will to reach the summit. He has been up there many times, but for me was my very first time, which was great.
In enjoyed a very clear summits, admiring the landscape, scenery, the beautiful crater on the top. I have really enjoyed.
Thank you so much to Mr. Soltani and Mr. Droodgar for help me to introduce myslef to the wonderful Iranian Mountains such as Mt. Damavand.
I recommend very much to anyone who wants to climb successfully Mt. Damavand go with Mr. Ardeshir Soltani, he is the best at Iran.

Sincerely,
Jaime Vinals
Guatemala
http://www.jaimevinals.com/

Jaime Vinals in Tehran
Jaime Vinals in Melat Park after climb to Mount Damawand Iran
Photo by A. Soltani

Comment by Gilad Stern from South Africa:
Climbing Damavand can be a bit tricky. It is a high mountain, and not to be underestimated, especially because the height gain is relatively quick. One goes from the low slopes to the 5671 metre high summit in two days, so there is not a great deal of time to acclimatise. So, I found that the best asset I had in climbing Damavand was the considerable experience of Mr Soltani.

It is unusual, maybe even unmatched, for one person to have such extensive experience of one seriously high mountain. Mr Soltani's literally hundreds of summits have given him unparalleled insight into Damavand, and he shares that insight with his client climbers. I benefitted from his advice and judgement, and that made the experience both pleasant and fulfilling.

Damavand is a characterful mountain, high, beautiful, and full of energy. My ascent was enhanced by a guide with character and energy in generous quantities.

Gilad Stern
Cape Town, South Africa
http://www.giladstern.co.za/

Gerald Stern on the Summit of Mt Damavand Iran
Gilad Stern on the top of Mt Damavand Iran
Photo by Ali Najafi

This page will be updated soon and will be sorted by the trip date to Iran and Mt. Damavand.
This may look an informal method of dropping off a message, we hope to find a propper script and host for MDG web-based guestbook to allow visitors remotely leave their public comments and notes.

Mount Demavand in Winter, Photo by A, Soltani
Damawand Mountain Iran
photo by Sherpa of Mt Damavand

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Guest Book MDG7MAY10A
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01 May 2010

Damavand-Tip


Climbing Tips
Mt Damavand Climbing Tips Part2
Climbing season is different in various continents and countries, for Mt Damavand in Iran it may not be the same as Mt Kilimanjaro in Tanzania or Mt Fuji in Japan. Climbing to this huge volcano gets more difficult as the Climate changes towards the winter and cold weather. We do not want to disappoint you, but it is really though to reach this peak in a freezing and cold condition, it is possible to reach the summit in a suitable weather only!

We recommend south face in summer for newcomers for their first trip to Damavand. If it is your first attempt to this mountain it is better to choose a proper timing such as 4 days itinerary from south route, June, July and August are good months to tackle the mountain and best days to be away from the crowds are Iranian midweek days, note Iranian weekend are Thursday and Friday, (Friday=weekend).
See also: Climbing Tips Part1, Common Mistakes, How to Climb.

Mt Demavand Hiking & Trekking above cloud Photo by Sherpa
Hiking & Trekking Tour Mt. Damawvand Iran
photo by A.Soltani

Advantages of South Route
- You may book and use private rooms in huts, instead of shelter/refuge and you can use better supports.
- Huts are the best places for acclimatization and accommodation.
- You have access to porter and mule easily in summer and you do not need to carry heavy equipment to Camp3 , there is no grantee for other routes.
- Huts are very safe haven in case of any bad weather and emergency.
- Usually rescue team can reach much quicker or are available in case of emergency.
- It is almost safe to leave behind the heavy equipments in hut private rooms on the summit day.

Disadvantages of Other Routes
- Remember there is no hut on other faces and you have to use shelter/refuge or tent only.
- In other routes in case of crowded shelter and bad weather you have to use tent only.
- Access to the starting point of other routes are difficult.
- Drinking water shortage on other faces compare to south classic route.
- Damavand Mountain north face is not popular because of its water shortage and difficult climbing geade too.
- You may find some water on other trails but not in all seasons, do not count on these water and do not expect clean water there, have enough water with you.

Ski Tips
Each year we meet different skier from various countries with different and new sophisticated equipments, due to importance and required safety in a ski tour and to match the electronic avalanche transceivers, we usually recommend the incoming team to bring a spare and extra set of the avalanches transmitter with the same type and brand for their ski guide to increase the chance of surviving in avalanches.

Mount Damavand in Winter, Photo by A, Soltani
Damawand Mountain Iran
photo by Sherppa of Mt Damavand

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MDG is a helpful tourism guidebook, outdoor photo and photographers, iran tourism industry, tourism information desk, trip reports, routes, facts, photos and pictures, maps, damavand picture pic, photo foto, image, video clips, climbing & trekking tour iran mountains, mountain skitouring, mountain tour persian trek, iran climb and ski tour iran tour organizer, culture attractions, world heritage site, travel reports, classic cultural tour, trekking agency, thorn tree iran discussions, guided tour, iran tourism & touring organization, iran climbing tours, climbing and mountaineer tour iran, discussion forum, seven natural wonders, guided trekking & climbing expedition hiking & trekking tour, foreign tourists, mountain huts tourist target.

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Climbing Tips 2 MDG1MAY10A
Copyright © Mount Damavand Guide . All rights reserved.

29 April 2010

Damavand-Tips


Tourism Tips
Iran also call Persia is a wonderful and fascinating country and the people are very kind, with great hospitality, warm reception of guests and strangers and foreign tourists. The people are very helpful and polite and will make you feel very welcome. There's so much bad news and nonsense about Iran in western media, just ignore it all, read some true practical info about incoming tours and experience travel to Iran yourself, do not believe and rely on western propaganda only.

We would like to share our information with adventurous traveler to Iran, we highly recommend to read this topic and some useful and informative pages in Lonely Planet from tourists who have visited Iran in 2010 and are just back with most updated info about Persia, they mention "Absolutely fantastic people, and a very interesting country" and "Most things are cheap in Iran".
See also:
Safe for Americans in Iran?
Iran - just back and these are my tips

Mt Damavand Summer Tour, Photo by Ardeshir Soltani
Beginning of a Mt Damavand Summer Tour
Photo by A.Soltani

Don't Be Scared
Just be a little brave! You won't be arrested as a hostage at airport! There is no 'morality police' any more!

Money
Iran currency is Rial, but people prefer to deal in Tomans, If you change 100 USD you become a multimillionaire! 10 Rials = 1 Toman
This is an approx exchane rate ( April 2010 )
To make things easy and understand the Iranian money just ignore all the zeros on the Iranian banknote money, that is all !
10,000 Rials= 1 USD
20,000 Rials= 2 USD
50,000 Rials= 5 USD

Important
Due to international sanctions against Iranian banks and possibility of international community considering boycotting of even more Iranian goods and the source of incomes please remember:
1- You can not use ATM system in Iran and can't get money out of the bank using electronic funds transfer at point of sale (eftpos).
2- You can not use your credit card to buy goods, only a few carpet shops will take credit cards and they'll charge you more.
3- Bring enough money in cash with you.
4- When transferring (the deposit) money from your country to your Iranian business partner, do not mention the name of Iran, you may just mention another term such as Mt Damavand Tour.
5- You may change money upon arrival at IKA International Airport, the rate is quite fare, there is not a major difference between exchange rates in bank and free market money exchange shops.
6- There is no problem for changing US$ or Euros, money exchange shops are available in most cities and hotels.

ghar Katalehkhor
Ghar Katalehkhor, Zanjan Iran, Photo by A.Soltani

Holidays in Persian Calendar
Be aware of Iranian holidays and weekends specially Iranian new year. These holidays makes some problems for incoming tours, most shops and tourism sites such as museums are closed and there are big traffic jams on the roads. Iranian weekend are Thursday and Friday. Friday = the weekend.

Nowruz or Now Rooz, 21 March to 2 April, is the traditional Iranian (Persian) new year holiday celebrated in Iran which marks the first day of spring and the beginning of the Persian Calendar.

There are 25 holidays. Dates for anniversaries are based on the Persian calendar, Lunar calendar or Zoroastrian calendar; the dates on the Gregorian calendar can vary from year to year. Nowroz , is not recommended for damavand climbing too, during this time you can not find public transport , and the roads are in the worst possible traffic condition.

Guide
It is a good idea to have guide, If you're not with a guide, have some extra time to find out about local things. Iran is a good country for group travel and guided tours, sometimes complicated to arrange and handle everything things alone, some places should be open but closed in some occasions without any notice!

Cheap Tours
When traveling to Iran for an adventure tour such as a Mt Damavand tour, remember the safety of your team and the quality of your tour are the main priorities, if some tour operators and organizers offer you very low costs for your trip, be aware that the quality of their services may be very low too.

Cave Karafto
Karaftou, Kurdestan Iran, Photo by Aredeshir Soltani

Internet Restriction
Internet cafes are available in most cities, but as you may follow the latest news on Iran, there are some restrictions and limitation to internet for some particular websites, specially in some occasions access to the internet is almost impossible, this limitation is not an international sanction, it is done locally by the Iranian authorities, ie Facebook is banned and some other sites, may be temporary blocked, but come back online later. Most Iranians know how to get around it and cafe employees may help you too.

Language
In Iran people speak in Farsi (or as you may call it Persian), although you may continue with English, it's a good idea to learn some Farsi phrases too, as someone will certainly speak enough English to translate for you, or show you in the right direction. Most street signs in major cities such as Shiraz and Isfahan are also in English.

Dress-code
For Women
A light-weight scarf and manteau or a long top and pants are fine.
No problem for open shoes, sandals acceptable, showing some fringe and make-up.

For Men
Wear long pants, but short sleeves are fine.

Cave Ali Sadr
AliSadr Cave Photo by Ali Majdfar

Food and Drink
Don't be worried about eating local food, just ask people or bring a guidebook to find good restaurants. Most restaurant in major cities have good and fresh food, tasty and healthy. Bottled water is available everywhere and very cheap. On the road you can easily find good restaurants, look for the places where the truck driver stop ! A lot of small stores sell food, bread, chips, chocolate, milk, water and ice cream, the Iran's ice cream is nice. Hotel breakfasts are usually bread, cheese, butter, feta, tomato, boiled or fried eggs, it is hard to find coffee in restaurants, there are Nescafe 3-in-1 variety.

Camera and Memory Cards
It's not difficult to find camera or memory SD cards, batteries, etc , it's easy to find almost everywhere, and prices are low. You may be able to use your phone cameras at some places which you have to leave your camera at the door!

Health
In case you get sick, pharmacies are everywhere and staff are attentive and prices are very cheap.

Cave Shapor
Shapour Cave Kazeroon Fars, Iran
Photo by A. Soltani

Alternate names, spellings and pronunciation (few incorrect)
for Mount Damavand Iran:
Dam•a•vand (dăm'ə-vănd', dä'mä-vänd)
Dem•a•vend (dĕm'ə-vĕnd')
Demavend: dĕmˈəvĕnd
Køh-e Damåvand
Demåvend Kuh
DAMAVAND, damavad, damavan, damavend, damāvand
DAMAWAND, damawad, damawan, damawend, damāwand
DEMAVAND, demavend, demawand, damawend, demāwand.
mount damāvand, damawand mountain, damavad volcan, demavand volcano, damawand, damawend, DAMAVAND.

Mt Damavand Peak 5671m
Mount Damavand Summit

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Tourism Tips MDG30APR10A
Copyright © Mount Damavand Guide . All rights reserved.

28 April 2010

Damavand-Jaime-Vinals3


Expedition to Mount Damavand in Iran
By Jaime Vinals

This is an automatic translation by MDG,
to read the original artical in Spanish please visit:
Expedición al Monte Damavand en Irán

My top number 27 in the list of the 50 world's most prominent summits. With its 5.671 meters above sea level, is the highest mountain in the Middle East and the highest volcano in Asia. It is located in the Alborz Mountains, 89 kilometers from Tehran Larijan district. Twelfth is the world's most prominent summit. Reaching the summit of Damavand, the highest mountain of Iran, is not just an expedition climber, is a challenge to the loneliness and uncertainty.

It all started to leave Guatemala on April 8, full of illusions and uncertainties of what I might bring a controversial country like Iran, a country that stopped me for more than a year to enter his land and climb the famous volcano, that for political reasons mainly. But this has been solved finally permits and contacts are made by a person out there in Iran. The time came, and this was met off the plane that took me to the ancient city of Tehran, Iran's capital city, after midnight on April 10, 2010. Leaving the airport, I met with my local contact Ardeshir Soltani, who has helped me enormously to get the usual permit ingress and to climb Mount Damavand, is an excellent person with great charisma, proud of their Persian roots and of Mount Damavand.

Damavand Mount Iran
Majid Droodgar, Jaime Vinals, Hadi Aghaei
Photo by A.Soltani

Immediately after the relevant health, we got into his car to travel 35 miles to the city, then cross the gigantic city of just over 15 million inhabitants, who at that hour of the morning traffic is very light, then 90 miles more the road to the Caspian Sea (north) is curious and interesting is also lowered in a dusty village in the middle of the road, set by some small shops are bright in the middle of nowhere. No one speaks a language other than the farsi, no tracks or traces of climbers to be told that we are in the right place, of course no stranger. But I am consoled by the impressive view of the surrounding mountains, away but still tempting to look beautiful in the moonlight.

Finally near dawn stopped for breakfast (rams' heads) in the region of Reyneh, last inhabited place on access to the South face of Mount Damavand, which is reached from the village of Polur. The Iranians are friendly and hospitable and make great efforts to take understand English, which in that world "farsi speaker" is greatly appreciated. For the success of the climb, at this time that the winter just ended, it is essential the basic equipment of a winter route because the snow is ubiquitous, cold reaches -35 º C There are complications as day summit to be overcome about 2,000 vertical meters accumulated very few miles. The majority of Iranians who try to drop frustrated by the hard, cold and altitude sickness.

Damavand Mt Iran
Mt. Damavand Camp3 Bargah Sevom and New Hut

In Polur no hotel, but the hidden golden statue of a mountaineer pointing in the direction of Mount Damavand suggests we are in the right place. On the outskirts of town is a hostel in the Iranian federation!, Hot water, kitchen, climbing wall, table tennis rooms and "decent." Getting there in the car of my friend Ardeshir Soltani was quite an event. We stayed there to rest and sleep all day Sunday. While awaiting the arrival of my climbing partner, who will be the Iranian mountaineer Doroodgar Majid, experienced and very knowledgeable about the region. The refuge is "enjoying" a tremendous loneliness (from now will be constant) and of Amir, the manager of the place, a friendly and discreet older man in charge of maintaining it.

At the end of Sunday afternoon Doroodgar Majid comes to the shelter. Polur then took the opportunity to buy the minimum that we need: unleavened bread as the Bible, biscuits, some tins of sardines ... tested the "maxigomino" which appear and car carpets are great for food energy. In the village there are places that offer rice, tea and lamb kebab, lamb, cut, in sausage, and other ways of presenting the same ... lamb. There is also a traditional yogurt, sometimes with garlic and parsley, which is not dessert, but to mix with the rice. To my surprise there are large containers Polur the falling water, and inside there are trout of which I can
pick one and eat it.

Damawand Mount Iran
Damavand Base Camp, From Left
Jaime Vinals, Majid Droodgar,
Ardeshir Soltani, Amir Mohammad Pour

Early on the morning of Monday, April 12 we took leave of Amir at the hostel. From that moment we began the approach to Mount Damavand, walked all day (25 kilometers) to a shelter to 2.975 meters above sea level, where a golden-domed mosque. Spectacular cliffs cut edges, we rub their hands with the view of the mountain and discovered nomadic families who come to their sheep graze in the green meadows. They eat bread, milk and cheese and live in brown canvas tents identical to those used in other parts of the world, as in the Sahara or the Andean steppes.

We spent the night there, the next day we started to walk behind a rock where it seemed out a path towards the mountain. The path runs on a stunning black lava language, but almost all covered with loose snow beneath which lie the verdiales few remaining at this point. Just in front, the summit was imposed all the time, sometimes capricious and put us deep powder sent to freezing cold and heartbreaking ... Calm ... we'll see if it happens ... The bivouac shelter in front, is almost all the time, even at night, because the Iranians, that the mountain does not know the clock, are able to start walking at 6 pm after a day of laziness.

Demavand Mount Iran
Jaime Vinals
A cosy restaurant after Mt. Damavand

Finally after six hours we arrived at the shelter bivouac at 3.980 meters above sea level, is in habitable condition. They fit about 30 people, water is about 100 meters along the path from behind the home side to the glacier to the east. The summit is attacked just after the shelter, make no mistake we see in the Northwest direction is downhill. The route goes through an edge between two glaciers, but maintains a very large gap (from 3.980 to 5.671 meters). On Tuesday we are dedicated to rest and allow us to acclimate to the altitude, we go and explore the surrounding area covered with rocks, snow and ice, with beautiful views of the valleys below us, at night highlights the enormous luminosity generated by Tehran.

On Wednesday April 14 we decided would be the summit day, we prepare for it early in the morning and 5:00 AM, just before dawn start our attack on the summit. After two hours of walking, seemed already touching the top with his hand, was palpable, the air, but it was not true!: It was a mirage. And we ... a step, another step, give me water, where's my glove?, Haste comes another deep powder ... As can enjoy the climb, the landscape, company, solitude, and the nasty wind that blows everywhere.

Damavend Mount Iran
Jaime Vinals, Melat Park, Tehran Iran

Seven hours of good climbing soon reached the summit. The cold took its toll, the height was noticeable and a sulfur belch us at the summit ... but ... Summit what more beautiful!: A perfect white circle, the crater gives himself airs of great volcano and its great plume is a nod to the cold. Full of happiness took pictures everywhere, surrounding the summit crater, the remains of a bronze statue destroyed long ago, ice mixed with volcanic sulfur, half-buried the leg of a sheep next to the monument destroyed and more.

But the blizzard threatening as an enemy, did not let us enjoy the view for a long time, so it down as quickly as possible to avoid being trapped by the dangerous storm. We let ourselves down by a large snow shovel southwest of the crater. Up to half of very long slope was completely frozen: what stress at the top of the impressive slide, does not allow an oversight. The descent is tough, four hours without a break, put the autopilot, but the last sections, loose and deep snow, ice, rock, earth ... became endless.

Damavand Mt. Iran
Jaime Vinals, Melat Park, Tehran Iran

Finally we reached the hut just after 6 pm and less bad, because at that time the clouds did not stop to look beyond the 4,500 meters. Sleep, leg pain, numb fingers, thirst, dust ... I want to drink something .. was late afternoon. I was marked by this solitary experience: a great mountain, a piece of Persia, a milestone in the history and legend ...

Mount Damavand always thank the courtesy of allowing me to meet, play and enjoy the summit. With this summit and took 27 of the 50 world's most prominent peaks, which would not be possible without the support of my sponsors Rayovac and The North Face.

Thanks!

Thanks also to Ardeshir Soltani and Majid Doroodgar for your support, friendship and brotherhood of mountains during my stay in Iran.
Jaime Viñals
http://www.jaimevinals.com
WE SEE IN THE SUMMIT!

Damawand Mount Iran
Jaime Vinals, Tehran Iran
Photo by Mount Damavand Guide

Damavand Mountain
Jaime Vinals, Majid Droodgar and Hadi Aghaei
14 April 2010, on the way to the Damavand Summit
Photo by Ardeshir Soltani

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Persian mountain trek, tour organizer, iran cultural attractions, world heritage photo and pictures, trip reports, cultural tour, lonly planet trekking froum thorn tree damawand and alborz mountain range iran, south route ski mountaineering, guided tour and tourism, climbing tours, , weather forecast report, discussion forum, trekking & climbing expedition seven volcanoes in the world, 50 most prominent mountains in the world, damavandmt.blogspot.com, damavand blogspot, damavand mt blogspot, mount damavand blogspot, damavand mountain iran, a volcanic cone, damavand top, peak, summit crater, north route damavand iran tour and tourism, hiking demawand, damavand, Dam·a·vand (dăm'ə-vănd', dä'mä-vänd), Dem·a·vend (dĕm'ə-vĕnd'), Demavend: dĕmˈəvĕnd.

Jaime Viñals MDG28APR10A
Copyright © Mount Damavand Guide . All rights reserved.

20 April 2010

Damavand-Jaime-Vinals2


Jaime Viñals - Mt Damavand
On 14 April 2010 Jaime Vinals conquered Mt. Damavand Iran, this 5671 meters volcano is the highest summit in the Alborz Mountain Range and the highest peak in the Middle East. Jaime reached the 27th of his total 50 peak targets in 50 most prominence summits of the world list which he wants to climb to set a new word record.

In this expedition, he was supported by Mount Damavand Guide team, Ardeshir Soltani, Majid Droodgar and Hadi Aghaei which they were proud to assist the great Guatemalan mountaineer and take part in his programme.

Damawand Mountain
Majid Droodgar, Jaime Vinals and Ardeshir Soltani
14 April 2010, Mt. Damavand, Photo by Hadi Aghaei

Itinerary
Day 1 - Arrival Day - 11 April 2010
From Frankfurt Germany To Tehran IKA Airport, transport by car directly to Camp1 Polour altitude 2270 m for acclimatization, over night at Camp1 Polour Hut.

Day 2 - Starting Day - 12 April 2010
Transport by car to Camp 2 - Base and by trekking to Camp 3, it was relatively a good day for trekking to the 3rd camp, over night at Camp3 New Hut.

Day 3 - Reserved Day - 13 April 2010
The weather was very bad, strong wind, freezing temprature and fog, due to inclement weather, team stayed at camp3 New Hut.

Before start, Jaime said people in Guatemalan believe that the day 13 on Tuesday is not a good day for any kind of activity (and it is a infelicitous , inauspicious day) ! I think he was quite right for the Tuesday 13 April 2010 in which the weather was extremely bad and I could only come out of the hut to take few pictures only !

Damavand Mountain
Mount Damavand Camp 3 shelter/refuge
Tuesday 13 April 2010, very bad weather
Photo by A. Soltani

Day 4 - Summit day
Climbing started at 7.15 AM, to the Mt Damavand summit at 4.15 PM and then return back to camp3 at 8 PM, over nigh at Camp3 New Hut. It was not an easy day too.

Damawand Mountain
Jaime Vinals at Mt. Damavand Camp3 New Hut
14 April 2010, Just before the kick off !
Photo by A. Soltani

Day 5 - Return day - 15 April 2010
Descend down to camp2, drive to Camp1. Transport to Tehran Hotel.

Days 6, 7, 8, 9
Tehran and Return day. Unfortunately due to volcanic activity in Iceland and ash cloud over Europe his flight to Germany was cancelled and he was not able to go ahead as planed and he had to stay few more day in Iran to find alternate routes outside Europe to his country.

Damavand Mountain
Jaime Vinals, Majid Droodgar and Hadi Aghaei
14 April 2010, on the way to the Damavand Summit
Photo by Ardeshir Soltani

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Jaime Viñals MDG20APR10B
Copyright © Mount Damavand Guide . All rights reserved.

19 April 2010

Damavand-Jaime-Vinals


Jaime Viñals
Jaime Viñals is attempting to set a new record in the world, he wants to be the first man in the history to reach the summit of the 50 most prominent mountains in the world. After the Damavand Volcano, Viñals plans to climb in May, the Fairweather Mountains, Alaska, and Rainier, Seattle, USA to beat his main rival. The dream is to become the first ever to climb the 50 highest peaks in the world and already done 27 of those successfully.

In almost twenty years of mountaineering around the world, Jaime Viñals, 49, the Guatemalan and Central American mountaineer has climbed to the top of more than 300 summits in 42 countries, summits at the Alps, Andes, Atlas, mounts of Iceland, Polar Circle, Antartica, Africa, Australasia, Asia, Himalaya, Everest, Aconcagua, McKinley, Kilimanjaro, Elbrus, and Damavand Mountain, the highest in America, the Arctic, Africa, Europe and Middle East.

Jaime reached the summit of Mt. Everest on 23 May 2001 after two previous unsuccessful attempts, he is the first man from Guatemala, Caribbean Region and Central American who achieved Mt Everest and is the only one of its region to climb the Seven Summits of the World.
Congratulations to Jaime and wishing him more success for the rest of his programme.

Seven Summits by Jaime Viñals
ACONCAGUA
Route: Normal, Summit day: 17 Jan 1995, climbed with:
Raymundo Arciniega from Mexico, German Figueroa from Mexico, Rodrigo Velazquez from Mexico, Carlos Martínez from Mexico, Eduardo Cuervo from Mexico, Alejandra Martinez from Mexico.

DENALI
Route: West Buttress, Summit Day: 8 July 1995, summit team:
Marty Schmidt from U.S.A. (leader), Dr. David Berke from U.S.A., John Harmon from U.S.A., Dr. John Heine from U.S.A. , Dr. Marco Pavesi from U.S.A., Erika Heine from U.S.A.

KILIMANJARO
Route: Umbwe, Summit Day: 15 Nov 1997, climbed with:
Alex Tarimo from Tanzania, Simon Miui from Tanzania, Nuru Sabik from Tanzania.

ELBRUS
Route: Southeast (Normal), Summit Day: 20 July 1998, with:
Tim Lovelace from U.S.A., Abu Vyalnekova from Russia, Leo Rub from U.S.A., Lena Belestkaya from Russia.

CARSTENSZ PYRAMID
Route: North Face and then West Ridge, Summit Day: 26 Oct 1999, summit team:
Leszek Cichy from Poland, Ana Czerwinska from Poland, Krzysztof Gardyna from Poland, Barbara Batro from Poland, Rudy Nurcahyo from Indonesia, Harry Kikstra from Holland, Mark Gunlogson from U.S.A., Alison Levine from U.S.A., Jose Mijares from Spain, Joe Wolfgruber from U.S.A.

KOSCIUSKO
Route: South side from Thredbo, Summit Day: 12 Oct 1999, climbed with:
Nelson Espinoza from Australia.

VINSON MASSIF
Route: Branscomb glacier, Summit Day: 9 Dec 2000, summit team:
Joby Ogwyn from USA., Alex Harris from South Africa, Gilad Stern from South Africa.

EVEREST
Route: North Col, Summit Day: 23 May 2001, climbed with:
Andy Lapkass from U.S.A., Asmus Norreslet from Denmark, was member of Russell Brice's expedition.

Achieved Summits
27 of the 50 most prominent mountains in the world by Jaime Viñals Until 14 April 2010

1- Mount Everest (Tíbet-Nepal) , Elevation 8,848 m (29,029 ft)
2- Mount Aconcagua (Argentina) , Altitude 6,962 m (22,841 ft)
3- Mt Elbrus (Rusia) , Elevation 5,642 m (18,510 ft)
4- Mt McKinley o Denali (Alaska, USA), 6,193.5 m (20,320 ft)
5- Mt Kilimanjaro (Tanzania) , Elevation 5,893 metres (19,334 ft)
6- Mt. Macizo Vinson (Antártida) , Elevation 4,892 metres (16,050 ft)
7- Mt. Carstensz, Puncak Jaya (Indonesia), 4,884 m (16,024 ft)
8- Pico de Orizaba Volcano (México) , Elevation 5,636 m (18,491 ft)
9- Mont Blanc (Francia-Italia) , Elevation 4,810 m (15,781 ft)
10- Chimborazo Volcán (Ecuador) , Elevation 6,268.2 m (20,565 ft)
11- Kinabalu Mount (Malasia) , Elevation 4,095 m (13,435 ft)
12- Tajumulco Volcano (Guatemala), Elevation 4,220 m (13,845 ft)
13- Mt Pico Bolívar (Venezuela) , Elevation 4,981 m (16,342 ft)
14- Mt Kerinci (Indonesia) , Elevation 3,805 m (12,484 ft)
15- Fuji Mount (Japón) , Elevation 3,776 m (12,388 ft)
16- Jebel Toubkal Mount (Marruecos), Elevation 4,167 m (13,671 ft)
17- Cerro Chirripó Grande Mt (Costa Rica), 3,820 m (12,533 ft)
18- Nevado Ojos del Salado Volcan (Chile), 6,893 m (22,615 ft)
19- Mt. Gunnbjörns Fjeld (Groenlandia), 3,694 m (12,119 ft)
20- Mount Ararat (Turkey) , Elevation 5,137 m (16,854 ft)
21- Pico Teide or Pico del Teide (Spain), 3,718 metres (12,198 ft)
22- Monte Ritacuba Blanco (Colombia) , Elevation 5,410 m (17,749 ft)
23- Volcán Mauna Kea (Hawaii, USA), 4,207.2 m (13,803 ft)
24- Semeru Volcano (Indonesia), Elevation 3,676 m (12,060 ft)
25- Rinjani Volcano (Indonesia) , Elevation 3,726 m (12,224 ft)
26- Monte Yushan (Taiwán) , Elevation 3,952 m (12,966 ft)
27- Mt Damavand (Iran), 5,671 m (18,605 ft) 14 April 2010

Seven Largest Islands in the World
In 2002, Viñals started an attempt to climb the highest peak of the seven largest islands in the world.
Island Mountain Name Altitude
1- Greenland Gunnbjørn Fjeld 3693 m
2- New Guinea Wilhelm 4509 m
3- Borneo Kinabalu 4101 m
4- Madagascar Maromokotro 2876 m
5- Baffin Island Tête Blanche 2156 m
6- Sumatra Kerinci 3800 m
7- Honshū Fuji 3776 m

Quick Biography
Jaime Viñals Massanet a Guatemalan mountaineer, was born in Guatemala City on 17 Nov 1966, he studied biology at the University of San Carlos. He started climbing in 1987, at the aged of 26. Since then, he has climbed over 300 mountains in 42 countries. Viñals had climbed the summit of the Mt Everest on 23 May 2001.

Read More about Jaime Viñals
In Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia and his Official Website.
Also in K2 News and Face Book

Demavand Mountain
Jaime Vinals, Majid Droodgar and Hadi Aghaei
14 April 2010, on the way to the Mt. Damavand Summit
Photo by A. Soltani

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Monte Everest (Tíbet-Nepal), Monte Aconcagua (Argentina), Monte Elbrus (Rusia), Monte McKinley o Denali (Alaska, USA), Monte Kilimanjaro (Tanzania), Macizo Vinson (Antártida), Pirámide del Carstensz (Indonesia-Nueva Guinea), Pico de Orizaba (México), Mont Blanc (Francia-Italia), Monte Chimborazo (Ecuador), Monte Kinabalu (Malasia), Volcán Tajumulco (Guatemala), Pico Bolívar (Venezuela), Monte Kerinci (Indonesia), Monte Fuji (Japón), Monte Jebel Toubkal (Marruecos), Cerro Chirripó Grande (Costa Rica), Nevado Ojos del Salado (Chile), Monte Gunnbjörns Fjeld (Groenlandia), Monte Ararat (Turquía), Pico Teide (España), Monte Ritacuba Blanco (Colombia), Volcán Mauna Kea (Hawaii, USA), Volcán Semeru (Indonesia), Volcán Rinjani (Indonesia), Monte Yushan (Taiwán}, hike and climb mountains, volcanoes, rocks and hills around the World, mount feeding, sleeping, challenges like Seven Summits of the World, the challenge to climb the highest summit of the seven largest islands of the World, project known as Seven Islands of the World Seven Continents + Seven Islands, the project called Taca Summits, which means to climb the highest summits in all the 19 countries Taca Airlines fly across America, from Canada to Chile.

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Jaime Viñals MDG20APR10A
Copyright © Mount Damavand Guide . All rights reserved.

03 April 2010

Damavand-Timing


Timing
When to Climb Mt. Damavand Iran?
Summer is best climbing time, in this season climate is relatively mild and footpaths are usually free of snow and you can follow the tracks, also access by public transportation to the starting points is easy. Climbers with ordinary climbing skills are strongly advised to try the mountain during this season only.

Best Climbing Time
June, July and August are the best climbing months for climbers to tackle the mountain, when there is usually little snow on the mountain, the preferred starting days are Saturday to Monday in Iranian midweek. Note weekend are Thursday and Friday in Iran.

Summer Season Disadvantages
The mountain shelters/refuges and huts are crowded during the school vacations in summer which is between 20 June to 23 Sep and the peak of crowd is about 6 August. To prevent any inconvenience regarding accommodation in shelters, use your own tent or book private rooms in Camp 3 New Hut in advance.

Mt Demavand South Route beginning of climbing season
Mt. Damavand South Route beginning of climbing season

When Not to Climb the Mountain?!
- Off Season
Damavand shelters are open through the entire year, but only experienced climbers who want to avoid the crowd, may consider the off season ascends, because from October to mid May climbing to this peak is risky due to extreme bad weather which the temperatures drops to far below zero at night and other risks.

- Iranian holidays and weekends
Due to crowd problem, you are advised to avoid climbing in Iranian holidays and weekends in summer, and also specially in Iranian new year holidays which is between 21 March to 2 April, during this time it is difficult to find public transport and the road traffic to the area is in the worst possible condition.
See also Crowds.

South Route Mount Damawand Iran
Damavand South Route Campsite3 to summit

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Common mistakes in mountaineering, cause of unsuccessful ascends to the peak, newcomers and experienced climbers, chance of success to this summit, lose more energy because of colder weather, risk of ams and injuries, the biological clock of your body, climbing in bad weather, save your life in case of emergency, nowruz is the traditional Iranian (Persian) new year holiday, it is referred to as an Eid festival, foreign tourists, hike during the school vacations.

Timing MDG3APR10A
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