damavand-faq3

FAQ - Part 3
Frequently Asked Questions Mt Damavand

Fitness
Q- In our group, some of us did Kilimanjaro but others have never climbed before. Is possible two organize separate teams for different level of fitness?
A- No problem.

Q- What is the required level of fitness?
A- Very good fitness is required for the summit, ordinary fitness for 4200m or lower parts.

Q- at the mean time please let me know what sort of exercise would help me to be ready for the climb ?
A- Mount climbing, running, cycling, swiming are very useful, and it is recommended to sleep few nights at the elevation about 4000m for better acclimatization.

Q- Please advise me what should I do and how to get fit for the climb.
A- These activities are very useful, running for 1 hour twice a week or walking-tracking for 2 hours 3 times a week, or cycling for 2 hours twice a week, best place to do these exercises are mountains or hills If you have any access, swimming for 2 hour twice a week.

Food and Drink
Q- I am a vegetarian, and do not eat meat or fish what do you recommend?
A- I have no idea for this one ! But I will do my best to find some suitable food for you with your advice.

Q- Can we buy breakfast/dinner at Camp1 Polour Hut or Lodge?
A- Yes, depends to the kind of food you need.

Q- What is situation with water in the camps 2 and 3.
A- There is no running water in the area in except in summer, you may melt ice and snow.

Q- can we eat the hot meals in the area in a tour?
A- Yes, we will support you with hot meal in huts.

Q- Is there possible to obtain food and drinking water in the new hut?
A- Just few items.

Q- Do you supplying food at Mt. Damavand camps (Goosfand Sara, Bargah Sevom)
A- Yes for our tours, we will supply all food and drinks during the tour.

Q- is there going to be a chance to buy food on the way/near the camps or we will have to shop for 4 days in Tehran?
A- Yes you can, but best place for shopping is Tehran.

Q- Is it possible to get food in Polour or should we get that in Teheran in advance?
A- Tehran is preferd for any shopping.

Q- Can we bring camping food through Iranian customs?
A- Yes, no problem you may bring any food you like.

Damavand Mountain Summer View, Iran
Photo by Anosh Soltani

General Info
Q- Can you help us to arrange somewhere we can put our gear that we are not taking with us on Damavand?
A- No problem, you may leave unnecessary ones behind in Camp 1 Plour or in your hotel in Tehran.

Q- Are there special conditions attached for women mountaineers?
A- No, Just like ordinerary climbers.

Q- I hope there is no restriction for woman climbers?
A- No, there is no restriction for women.

Q- of course we can bring our eqipment, but in rest of our expedition, we would like to travel in few parts of Iran, it will be unconfortable to bring it all the way.
A- It is possible to leave unnecessar stuff behind in you hotel or Polour Hut till you come back.

Q- Do you provide certified mountaineer / medic?
A- Please let me know what do you need exactly.

Q- I have uploaded your GPS coordinates to my GPS!
Seems to work perfect. A very good climbing aid!
A- You are welcome.

Q- Would it be possible to leave our mountaineering gear in Tehran hotel while traveling to Shiraz and back the second week of our stay?
A- Generaly it is no problem, in case of they do not offer this service you may leave your mountaineering gear in Polour hut.

Q- What is the distance from the airport to the base camp ?
A- Tehran IKA Airport to Camp1 Polour distance 133 Km, See more details in Facts And Figuers

Q- We will take the risk of cancellation of any domestic flights in Iran !
A- You understand the situation at this end.

Guide
Q- we want to make sure that a certified mountaineer is with us and knows how to deal with AMS or other frequent climbing medical situations
A- No problem.

Q- Do you think we will need the second guide because of 7 people in the group?
A- Yes, extra guide is recommended.

Q- Is it compulsory to have a guide for damavand climbing?
A- It is not compulsory, but a guide will increase your chance of success and decreases your other costs.

Q- Will you be our tour guide for ---- ?
A- I hope so !

Q- I wonder if you could help me. I would like a guide to take me up Damavan in … this year. Can you recommend me to a guide please?
A- We can provide you the most experienced guide and any necessary service you need.

Q- may I ask you to coach me on my journey? I surely make it up to you in the future.
A- My pleasure, I do my best to be in that programme.

Q- How much does it cost to hire a guide.
A- Low in summer, high in winter and off season.

Hotel
Q- Do u You know maybe some nice (and cheap) hotel in the centrum of Tehran city ?
A- Depends how much money you want to spend for hotel ? My suggestion for the cheapest and best accommodation is, to go directly from airport to the Iranian Mountaineering facilities closed to Mt.Damavand ... much better weather than in Tehran, you can save your money and time and best place for acclimatization.

Q- Could you possibly give us a tip for a cheap but nice hotel in Teheran for three nights?
A- Please choose your Hotel in topic Hotel, we will book it for you.

Q- Can you please book me a simple hotel in Tehran,?
A- Yes, we will book a room for you, please be in touch for the hotel address. If you have Google Earth software installed on your PC just click on the attached placemark file to see your Hotel location in Tehran !!

Itinerary
Q- Which itinerary do you recommend, I believe our physical condition, which seems not to be good enough right now !
A- We suggested 3 or 4 days itinerary for your programme, see also Itinerary pages.

Damavand Mount, Winter View
Photo by Ardeshir Soltani

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FAQ Part 3 MDG18JAN10C
Copyright © Mount Damavand Guide . All rights reserved.

damavand-faq4

FAQ - Part 4
Frequently Asked Questions Damavand Mountain

Maps
Q- Do you know if there are any available maps over the Mount Damavand? Where could we in that case buy it?
A- Yes there are many maps you can find in Tehran book shops and sport shops in Enqelab St. opposite Tehran University and ValiAsr Street , near Moniriyeh Sq. And you may use Google Earth which you can see the routes much clearer, (if you need help about Google Earth I can show you the Pointers).

Q- Could you show me the pointers for google earth?
A- Yes, please visit Virtual Trip By Google Earth. If you have already installed Google Earth software just download and click on the files and enjoy!

Q- Where can I find and buy a good map so we can find the way on our own?
A- Tehran, Vali Asr Ave, near Moniriyeh Sq.

Q- Are maps available at Polour or Bargah?
A- Perhaps at Polour Camp.

Q- is the track to the summit easy to find or not?
A- In clear day, clear sky and good condition, it is ok and easy to find . But in bad weather and fog it is difficult to find the way and footpaths especially when you return back from peak to Bargah Sevom. If you want to try it alone, it is a good idea to have a GPS with you. Save the useful GPS Landmarks to your GPS unit.

Damavand South Route Map

Mobil Network and Telephone
Q- Is there any public phone in Camp 3, we can use?
A- No , but mobile phone works in some area in camp3.

Q- Can i ask you whether mobile phones work at Polour or base camp (or on the mountain ?).
A- Yes in most palces it works.

Q- Maybe I can buy a sim card for my mobile phone when I enter Iran? Is that possible?
A- Yes you can buy some cheap sim cards like IRANCELL.

Mountain Sickness
Q- I wish to know is there any risk for altitude sickness or we climb slowly and get our body chance to acclimatize?
A- There is always the risk of AMS, specialy for the newcomers, so before finalizing the tour we should know about fitness of all individuals. We always go slowly and steady.

Q- do you provide supplementary oxygen incase of any need?
A- Yes, no problem.

Payment
Q- Should I send a bank transfer deposit ?
A- Please be advised that for private tours, 50% deposit payment of total invoice is necessary before we can book your hotel & camp room and preparation of other items in your itineary in time and pay the remaining balances in cash in Euro on the first day of the tour. See also Terms of Payment.

Q- Please advise how I have to make the down payment for booking
A- Please be advised that 50% deposit payment of total invoice is necessary before we can book your hotel & camp room and preparation of other items in your itineary in time ,usualy there is a mutual trust between we and you, you may pay the diposit when you confirm your tour and the rest when you arrive in tehran, in case of you decide to change your programme for any reason , just let me know 4 weeks in advance.

Permit
Q- Do we need some special permision for climbig Mt. Damavand.
A- Iran Mount Climbing Federation asks all foreign climbers to pay 50 USD per person as permit .

Q- As far as I understand every climber needs to pay USD50 as a climbing fee right?
A- Yes.

Q- How much is the permit fee per person?
A- 50 USD per person.

Q- I understand that we must pay the permit fee for spending the three days on the mountain and to use the shelters. Is the fee per person?
A- The fee is 50 USD per person .See also News 2009.

Q- Can you help us to arrange climbing permit ?
A- Yes we may get necessary permits for you.

Q-Climbing permit (if needed??), where and when (how much?)
A- Climbing permit is necessary for all foreign climbers and the fee is 50 USD per person, political passport holders are not required to pay for permit fee.

Q- do we need a permit to climb or it is just a service charge?
A- Permit is compulsory for all foreign climbers, if the representive of mount federation is in the area you should pay .
See also Warning 2- to all foreign climbers.

Porter and Mule
Q- How do we book mules to carry equipments from Gosfan Sara to Barga Sevom and how much do this cost?
A- In summer you can get mules in Gosfan Sara, they increase their price each year !!

Q- I would like to do the trek on my own and no porters and mules?
A- It is not recommended to carry heavy equipments yourself.

Q- How much does it cost to hire a porter.
A- It depend to the season, amount of snow and the route conditinon,

Routes
Q- We would prefer to ascend on the west or north face route.
A- No problem, we will organize in any route you wish, see also Difficulty .

But please be aware of these advantages of south orute:
- South route has the best mountain camps in iran.
- In other routes in case of crowded shelter and bad weather you have to use tent.

- you do have not to stay in tent in case of bad weather.
- we can give you a better support there.
- We can arrange porter and mule for you tour easily and you do not need to carry heavy equipment to 4200m , there is no gurantee for other routes.
- it is almost safe to leave behind the heavy equipments in new camp3 on the summit day.
- Usually rescue team can reach much quicker, or may be avalable, in case of emergency.
In any case and any other route we will do our best for you.

Q- Is it possible to ascend Mt Damavand from the north side in May.
A- North route it is one of the difficult sides in May, you should be very strong and experinced climber to attempt north face in May. See also Winter Climb.

Q- Are there glaciers on South Route ?
A- No, in south route there is no major glacer.

Q- Is the level of avalanche danger high or low on south route (assuming no large recent snow falls).
A- Very Low in April.

Services
Q- Do you provide the trekking supplies tent, food, water and porter services?
A-Yes, we can offer you all logistic and support you need. See also Services.

Q- Do you think you can help us with guide and sleeping bags in the area?
A- No problem, I should remind our guide to take extra sleeping bags for you.

Sherpa
Q- if we need a sherpa, how does it work in winter?
A- When you have heavy gears you need sherpa, you better to book sherpa in winter and off sesons.

Ski
Q- What are the snow conditions around Lasem and Damavand Mt for ski mountaineering in winter?
A- Mostly quite good in some years.

Q- Are there a lot of people coming for ski n April, mainly with respect to the available places in the last bivouac hut. We plan to take a tent and all the cooking gear to the hut, is it worth it?
A- Not crowded in April.

Q- I will be carrying rescue gear (Barivox search and locate 'beeper', spade, probe etc). Will the guide also be carrying this ?
A- If possible please bring an extra beeper plus an extra probe.

Q- Is there any mountain rescue facility there if there is an emergency in winter ?
A- No, but it is possible to contact them by mobile phone.

Q- a certified mountain guide from the Iranian mountain federation with extensive skitouring experience is what i would like. The guide should also be on skis !
A- No problem. You will be guided with an experienced guide with the mentioned capabilities.

Q- Will there be a certified mountain guide taking us up the whole way ? Will this person also be on skis and have extensive skitouring experience ?
A- Which kind of guide do you prefer ? Just let me know, We will support you with the best avalable guide in Iran.

Q- Do you know of any local guides / mountain federation organised trips which will carry out the skitour in April ?
A- Yes, We organize and offer the best possible services for your ski tour.

Q- There are reports of the mountain often having very little snowcover in April - is this true ?
A- Yes it is true in some years with little rain and snow fall, you better to check the snow condition two weeks before your arrival.

Q- I am interested in climbing your mountain. I would prefer to do do when it has substantial snow cover for ski. When would the best time of year to do it?
A- Best winter climb timing is mid Dec to mid Feb, please read this warning in Ski Mountaineering :

Q- Do you have ski guides available?
A-Yes, we will support you with the most expericed guide avalable in Iran for a winter and ski mountaineering.

Route Map Mt Damavand

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FAQ Part 4 MDG18JAN10D
Copyright © Mount Damavand Guide . All rights reserved.

damavand-faq5

FAQ - Part 5
Frequently Asked Questions Mt. Damavand Iran

Timing
Q- What is situation with snow in spring?
A- too much snow camp3 to the summit, it is recommended to bring winter equipments with you.

Q- What is the snow situation in the winter?
A- Usually there is heavy snow falls in the area. See also warning in Winter Climb .

Q- Any advice and information would be greatly appreciated for spring climb.
A- Usuallu we are have heavy snow fall in the spring, you may face winter condition, so take care and have winter gears with you and do not leave the camps if weather in bad.

Q- What are the best months for trekking in summer? (e.g. June /July) or autumn (September / October)?
A- Best Climbing Time: 10 June To 20 August .

Q- How about climbing during mid September? I guess there are less people on the mountain, but perhaps will there be more rain?
A- In September, yes it could be less crowd but there might be more snow and colder. See also Climate

Q- Do you think it's possible to climb the mountain in May?
A- Yes, when the weather is good.

Q- is there a lot of snow in May ?
A- It depends to the weather, usually there is not a lot of snow at this time of the year.

Q- My preferred dates would be: arrival in Tehran on ----.
A- To get rid of road traffic in Iranian weekends, Saturday to Monday are recommended for starting dates.

Q- So we would like to conquer Damavand in the 1st half of May......
A- Depends to the amount of snow, the condition might be tough early May.

Q- which month you recommend, I would rather not very hot climb and getting to the snow if it is safe..
A- Best climbing time 10 june to 10 August . Even in the peak of summer it is cool and pleasant.

Damavand Hiking & Trekking Tours
Photo by A. Soltani

Tours
Q- We would like to take the opportunity to see Esfahan, Shiraz and maybe some other places in your exciting country. However, that might be more difficult during Ramadan.
A- There is not much restriction for foreign tourists during Ramadan, you may eat and drink in your hotel any time you like, also there are some open restaurants for tourists during the day in any city.

Q- However, i would like to spend few days in Esfahan. Do you think that this could be worked into the itinerary.
A- Yes we can arrage it.

Q- Would you also have an English speaking guide for my visit to Esfahan ?
A- Yes no problem, we will provide you one.

Q- Should we book or buy domestic filght tickets to Shiraz or Isfahan in advance?
A- You should buy domestic filght in Iran in advance.

Q- We need domestic flight to Shiraz.
A- Please give us the names and the exat flight days to and from Shiraz.

Q- In a Damavand private tour, will i be the only person or in a group going up ?
A- You will be with your guide only.

Q- When should I ask you to make tour reservation before my arrival.
A- At least one month before your starting day.

Q- well as the round trip takes 3 days I wish to know is this flexible to four days or so if acclimatization takes more time...
A- Please remember, Private Tour are custom designed, but Shared Tours are not flixible.

Q- In a shared tour, Do we need to bring our own food and water for all days?
A- No, we will support you with hot meal at the huts.

Q- Please give the information until which date we need to confirm and register our tour in advance?
A- The sooner the better, it is recommended to register at least one month before the starting date .

Q- We have decided to choose the Shared Tour on event calendar for South Route ...... and we want to take part in.
A- No problem.

Q- In a private tour package, do we sleep in a tent or in the hut in camps?
A- There will be hut + bed + hot meal in camp1 and camp3 .

Q- In a private package, do we need to get all the cooking stuff with us or you will provide it? And will we have a separate cook on the route or we're gonna cook ourselves?
A- In our private tours, you do not need to bring cooking stuff or cook yourself, you do not need to be wory about anything, just leave all to us and enjoy your tour.

Q- will you organize our trip to Shiraz (and Persipolis) ?
A- Yes, no problem.

Q- I would be interested in climbing Mt Damavand next may or june in 8 days or so.
A- Please choose a suitable programme in the page itinerary.

Q- have you got guides tours?
A- Yes, We offer guided tours, climbs, hiking & trekking.

Q- Should i tell you which hotel i would like to stay in, and you book it ?
A- Yes, choose the kind of hotel then we will book it for you.

Q- any spa in the area ?
A- Yes, Larijan Thermal Spring .

Q-Concerning the date of our arriving in Tehran it is still a bit uncertain .....
A- the sooner you fix your programme , the better time and service you may get.

Q- what is included guided trip ?
A- In a full package, almost every necessary things.

Transport
Q- Do you think it is possible to organize transport from Camp 2 to Tehran in summer.
A- Yes we may organize it for you.

Q- Do you know if its possible to catch a bus from the Turky border crossing to Tehran and how I can do that please?
A- Yes you can catch a bus from the border, or you can go to the Makou an Iranian city near the border and find a bus to Tehran. Please remember that after crossing the border, if you go to TABRIZ or OROMIYEH major Iranian city, you have more option to find a bus (or airplane) to Tehran.

Q- We are from..... and will not be able to afford the airport pick-up. We will find a taxi to Polour or take a bus into Theran and then try to find a bus that goes on the Haraz main road to drop us close to Camp 1 Polour.
A- Perhaps this is a cheap way for you: From IKA Airport or any place in Theran you can go to Terminal Shargh by taxi, or bus. From Terminal Shargh you can get a bus to Haraz Road to Polour junction, there is a statue of a mountain climber showing the Damavand way! From here you can get a local Taxi to Iran Mount Federation Camp 1 Polour.

Q- Is it easy to find transport in Polour to take us to Camp 2/ Base Camp in Spring?
A- Yes, but remember that cars may not be able to go all the way to camp2 in this time of the year.

Q- Can you please tell us if it is possible to get a bus or taxi from the airport directly to Polour, or does one need to go into Theran first and then get transport from there?
A- There is no direct bus from IKA Airport to Polour, some taxis may know about this mountain camp but not all of them.

Q- Could you possibly organize a transport to Gusfansara "as far as car can go" in May or April?
A- No problem.

Q- Could you possibly organize a transport for us from Teheran to Lasem?
A- No problem, we can offer you this Service.

Q- I am not sure if the road to Camp 2 Base ( Gusfansara) is completely useable in April?
A- We may consider this road "as far as car can go" in April.

Q- Is it possible to get a transportation means from Rineh to Tehran on Friday ?
A- Yes it is possible, remember Friday is not a good day to be on the Haraz Road See details in Haraz !

Q- Is it possible to get a taxi or transportation means from Gusfansara to Rineh on the way back from the summit?
A- Yes it is possible, but we do not recommend Camp 1 Reineh ,we recommend to use Camp 1 Polour instead.

Q- Is it possible to get a taxi/bus in Lasem to go to Gusfansara or is it better to book a taxi in advance?
A- You may find one, but it is recommended to book it in advance.

Q- Is it safe for a British citizen to take the train from Tehran to Van in Turkey ?
A- No problem, bus or train.

Q- Can you help us to arrange the transportation towards the Base Camp (Gosfand Sara) as long as possible minding the snow.
A- Yes, we can arrange it, as far as car can go depending on season.

Q- How can i reach Reyneh from Teheran? Is there any buses? when the last one leaves?
A- Why do you want to go to the Reyneh ?! If you travel from Tehran, there is better way, shorter and cheaper, go to Polour Hut and start from there.

Q- can we travel from Teheran to polour village (can we travel by bus)?
A- From any place in Theran You can go to Terminal Shargh by taxi . From Terminal Shargh you can get a bus to Polour .

Q- How do we book transport from Reyneh to Gosfan Sara?
A- in Iranian Mountaineering Federation Camp in Polor Village or Reyneh Town you can ask for the car.

Q- We need transportation mainly, for trip to Damavand ?
A- No problem, we can fix it for you, just let us know the exact date and time few week before your trip .

Q-How we can get reliable and safe transport ?
A- We try to do our best for you .

Weather Forecast
Q- In case of bad weather, is it possible to change the summit day ?
A- No problem, If you have reserved an extra day, you may try your second chance.

Q- Thank you for warning us about the weather in Spring. We have good clothes for really cold conditions!
A- You are welcome.

Q- what will the temperature be at basecamp in evenings in July?
A- Near zero to sub zero. have a look at Weather Forecast in MDG, it is about 90% correct.

Damavand, view from Polour Village
Photo by A. Soltani

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FAQ Part 5 MDG18JAN10E
Copyright © Mount Damavand Guide . All rights reserved.

damavand-difficulty

Difficulty
Mt Damavand Difficulty and Climbing Grade
The difficulty of this giant 5671m volcano is similar to Mt Kilimanjaro 5892 m in Tanzania and Mt Everest Base Camp 5380 m in the Himalayan Mountains.

This mountain is well-known for its moderate climbing slops, ascend to this summit is not technical, but physically a moderate challenge in summer and very difficult in winter, climbers should be fit enough to try it in any season, the main challenge of ascend are acclimatization, timing and the weather.
The attempts to this peak should be done only in a correct timing and in a good weather otherwise it could be very risky and tough in a bad weather and off-season.

Mt Damavand South Route Difficulty and Climbing Grade
By Mount Damavand Guide

Climbing Grade In Summer
South Route
Route type: Fundamental-basic mountaineering
Difficulty: Moderate walk-up, easy descend

West Route
Route type: Basic-simple mountaineering
Difficulty: Moderate walk-up (basic snow and cold ), difficult descend

North East Route
Route type: Moderate mountaineering
Difficulty: long and hard ascend, cold and wind , long descend.

North Face Route
Route type: Moderate mountaineering, scramble, steep
Difficulty: The most difficult side, hard ascend, depending on season,
cold,windy, snow and Ice , difficult descend.

Some of climbers who ascend to the top from West, North East, or North Face prefer to descent from south route because of its easy descend footpaths !!

Damavand South Route Map
By Mount Damavand Guide

South Route Climbing Grade in Different Systems
Note: These grades are MDG opinion and regardless of the system used, they are approximation only, there are differences between grading in different climbing routes.

Difficulty: F, YDS class 2 (and sulphur gas above 5400 m)

UIAA: II
USA: 5.3
Australia: 11
France: 2

YDS Grade: Grade V, two day climb Classes 2 and 3
Adjectival grade: Moderate (M, or "Mod")
French Alpine: PD: peu difficile (not very difficult)
New Zealand: Grade 1, Easy scramble. Use of rope generally only for glacier travel.
Alaska Grade: Grade 2 Either a moderate fifth-class one-day climb, or a straightforward multiday nontechnical climb.
See also definition for Climbing Grade in Wikipedia.

Hiking & Trekking Mt Damavand Above Clouds
Photo by Ardeshir Soltani

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Technical info for damavand, climbing grade and difficulty for differnt routes, trail map, google earth image, photo, pic, picture, video clip, gps landmark, facts and figures, equipment and gear,
tips and tricks, climbing and ski mountaineering tour, elevation, faq, hiking and trekking tour 2010, news 2010, summit photo, weather, ecosystem photo, picture and video, peak, damavand iran .

Difficulty MDG15JAN10D
Copyright © Mount Damavand Guide . All rights reserved.

damavand-crowd

Crowd
Popularity and Crowd
Mt Damavand is popular because it is the symbol of freedom agains enemies in Iranian myths, it is mentioned in Persian literature throughout the years and is the subject of many folk poems. In technical terms, it is well-known due its great height with moderate climbing slopes and mild climbing grade and difficulty.

This mountaineering peak has gained its popularity quickly among foreign tourists recently and is visited by a great number of climbers each summer. The most popular face of the mountain is the south route, due to its easy accessibility from Tehran, also for the excellent mountain huts.

Mt Damavand Iran, Summer View
Photo by A.Soltani

Today, it is an international tourist target and one of the world's finest peak. There is no clear estimation about the number of climbers who visit this summut each year, but about 10 percents appear to be foreigners.
This popularity has made some crowd problem for the climbers.

How to Avoid Crowd Problem in Summer
The crowd season is between 20 June to 23 Sep, during the school vacations and the highest crowd peak happens about 6 August.
In order to encounter the least crowd problem, keep away from weekends and holidays, Iranian weekends are Thursday and Friday, start your programme on Sunday or Monday and finish it before weekend.

- Haraz Road is the only access road to the mountain, during Iranian weekends and holidays, there are big traffic jams in this road.
- Don't count on Camp 2 Base at all, you better ignore this campsite for any acclimatization and accommodation, it is the worst campsite in area in summer, it is very crowded and dirty, it is invaded by local people, tour buses and cars arrive there any time and make a lot of noise.

For acclimatization use Camp 1 Polour or Camp 3 New Hut only .
see also Warning
- During the crowd never sleep in Camp 3 Bargah old Shellter, use your own tent or book private rooms in Camp 3 New Hut.

See also helpful info for When to climb? When Not to Climb? in Timing

Summer Tour

Summer Tours , Photo by Ardeshir

Spring Tour
Photo by Ardeshir Soltani

Base Camp Mosque and Shelter Crowd
Photo by A.Soltani

Base Camp Mules
Photo by Soltani

Base Camp Shelter
Photo by Ardeshir Soltani

Bargah Sevom Shelter and Tents
Photo by Soltani

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Crowd MDG15JAN10C
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damavand-mistakes

Common Mistakes Part1
Common Mistakes in Mt Damavand Mountaineering
There are some common mistakes among iranian and foreign climbers which are the main cause of unsuccessful ascends to this peak, the errors are done not only by the newcomers but also by experienced climbers too. In this topic we share our experience and give you the necessary tips to avoid these mistakes and increase your chance of success to this summet.

1- Ascending at Night
We strongly advise you never climb at night, even if you see some climbers do so and persuade the others to follow them. Best climbing time is during the daylight only. Recommended starting time from camp3 to Damavand summit is 5 or 6 am.

Why You Shouldn't Climb at Night
There is a wrong believe among iranian climbers whicht recommend to start your climb from camp3 towards the summit at night, they have mainly two resons for their decision:

A- They insist that the sooner you reach the top the less sulfuric gas you smell because of Volcanic Activity!
This is totaly wrong. The amount of sulfur gas smell or emission is not depend on the time of the day, it depend mainly on the wind direction and speed. They are worried too much, it is just a Mt Damavand nervousness!

B- They mention that you need more time on the summit day.
This is wrong too, if you start at 5 or 6 am, after a successful ascend you have enough time to return back even to Tehran, (but it is better to take it easy and rest at camp3 after your return from the summit).

Night climbing will make you tierd very soon because:
- You have less rest so you are not fresh enough to go as usual.
- You lose more energy because of colder weather at night.
When you made yourself tired and exhaust, no matter how much time you have, you will give up.

Further More
- At night you can't find appropriate footpaths and you may make more mistakes.
- Risk of AMS and injuries are more.
- The most important one, the biological clock of your body says it is sleeping time, although you may be awake !!
- About 60 to 70 percent who start at night , do not succeed and never see summit !!

Mt. Damavand in Summer

2- Sleeping in Crowded Shelter
Camp 3 Bargah Sevom Shelter is too Crowded and noisy in summer, it is not a suitable place for any Accommodation and Acclimatization, for the best comfort and privacy it is better to use a tent, or you may reserve and use the Camp 3 New Hut private rooms in this campsite, shared saloon is not good too.
Note, camp3 is the last campsite on the Mt. Damavand south route.

3- Don't Carring Heavy Equipments
If you carry heavy equipments yourself, from base camp to camp3, this will make you very tired and will effect you climb timing in the next day and cause some problem in the summit day.
Despite the fact that the mule-men are not so friendly and tolerable, and their price seem to be expensive, it is important to use mule and porters.

4- Insufficient info on Mt Damavand
If you are a newcomer and this is your first attempt to this mountain, you better first read the following pages, How To Climb, Timing, Itinerary, Maps, GPS Landmark. Use of an experienced guide or a reliable coach is recommended.

5- Acclimatization and AMS
Acclimatization is the major challenge of Mt Damavad, it is necessary to have a suitable acclimatization before your attempt, this will increases you chance of success and decrease the risk of Mountain Sickness.
Note camp2 base ist not recommended for acclimatization.

6- Bad Weather
Climbing to the summit in bad weather is impossible for any team, when the weather is not good enough, do not leave your camp and do not atempt climbig, it is recommended to have an extra day in your itinerary for bad weather.

7- Insufficient Equipment
To enjoy a safe ascend to the summit, it is crucial to bring the proper Equipmen. Mt Damavand weather is good usually in summer, but it may change rapidly, have enough cloths and equipments even during a good day to save your life in case of emergency .

Don't be scared of sulfur gas, make a small mask, add some vinegar to a handkerchief ,it helps you alot !

Vinegar Mask for Damavand Sulfur Gas

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Common Mistakes MDG15JAN10B
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Climate

Climate
Mount Damavand Climate
In general terms this mountain has two seasons only, summer and winter! The other seasons are too short , it is necessary to be aware of the weather forecast before you atempt climbing. Remmember in any season, for a successful climb you need a reliable weather, it is a good idea to reserve an extra day in your itinerary for bad weather.

Spring April, May
Climbing in spring is rather difficult, but Damavand is beatiful, specially for its good-looking natural poppy fields which start blooming in May in lower parts of the mountain and gratually covers the upper sides. May and June are suggested months for hiking and trekking tours nature and ecosystem of the mountain.

Damavand in Spring

Summer June, July, August
Damavand is a popular peak for summer, June, July and August are are the recommended months for the climbing the mountain, in this season footpaths are usually free of snow, the weather is mostly good, and reaching the mountain base camp is easy by public transportation, but there is a disadvantage, shelters are crowded. Best timing for ordinary climbers to tackle the mountain. Usually the weather is good in summer, but it could change to bad rapidly and the temperatures may drop to sub zero fast, so be aware to have sufficient cloths even during a good weather.

Mt. Damavand in Summer

Autumn September, October
Generally it is cold and windy, there is no water in the area, shelters are not crowded, have winter equipment with you, because of icy footpath ascend and descend is difficult.

Mount Damavand in Autumn

Winter November, December, January, February, March
The winter climate may start even from October and last to April, ascending to the Damavand summit is very difficult, there are excessive wind up to 100 Km/h and severe low temprature down to -60 deg C, and some other risks, climbing is graded very difficult. There are heavy snow falls in winter because it is closed to the Caspian Sea, it makes climbing very difficult in winter, but it ideal season for ski mountaineering, from December to mid May.

Damavand Winter Tips and Recommendations:
- A successful climb in winter is experience plus good equipments, good timing and weather.
- You need a very experienced climbing or ski guide in winter.
- For climbing or ski mountaineering use south route only.
- Road to the base camp is blocked by snow and ice, so cars can not go up to this campsite.
- Impossible to use the mules, so you must carry all gears yourself or by porters.
- Shelters need cleaning from garbage and snow, if you could find them under snow !

Warning
The weather has caused more casualty than any other factor by climbers. Remmember weather forecast is only an approximation, so do not rely on theset reports totally.
The weather in damavand could change to disastrous very quickly in winter, strong winds more than 100km/h and freezing temp below -60°C, you should be very experienced for a difficult ascend or ski expeditions in the difficult climates and be aware of that there is no rescue team and medical facilities in the area in case of injury andemergency, so extra care in necessary in winter and any consequences is at your own risk.

Damavand Mountain in Winter

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Climate MDG15JAN10A
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