31 January 2010

damavand-danger-zone


Danger Zone
Mt Damavand South Route Danger Zone
There is a dangrous zone on the south face of the mountain causing many death in bad Weather. This deadly area is between the fake summit 5400m and the real peak 5670m, it has been the most accident and casualty part of the southern route and the area where the most losses take place. Some beginner and even few famous Iranian climbers lost thier way and consequently their life in this area.

The area is without rocks, it has a mild slope with easy Difficulty and climbing grade, it is similar to a desert with no sign, there are only few guideposts in the area which you can not find them in fog and cloudy condition. You may consider it as the Bermuda Triangle of this mountain, but without the mysterious and supernatural events, it is a one way road ! you can ascend but you do not find your way back to the Camp 3 New Hut, the climber get lost when they return back from the Summit in this deadly zone.

The major cause of casualty in this area is bad weather and foggy condition, in a good visibility it is easy part of the mountain, in a bad visibility and without any particular Equipment it is possible to climb to the top, but impossile to find any sign, footprints and your way back to descend to the low camps and you may finish with a bitter end.

Mt. Damavand South Route Danger Zone
Mt Damavand Danger Zone
Photo by A.Soltani

Warning for Bad Weather
- Do not go upper than fake summit.
- Compass or a gps unit is necessary.
- An experienced mountain guide may be helpful.

GPS LandmarkThe danger zone stars from this point upto the summit, it is also the sulphuric area of the volcano.

Fake Summit
Altitude 5400 m
Latitude 35, 57, 05 N
Longitude 52, 06, 37 E

Fake summit alternate names:
Baam e Jonobi, Sang e Pes-tan, dood koh

Victims of Danger Zone in the recent years

Spring 2009

After their climb to the peak and on their way back, four climbers from Bandar Abas Province, Iran, lost their way to west ridge, three of them died and only thier leader survived.
The Victims:
- Torabi AbdulHamid
- Memari Farkhoundeh
- Keshmiri Sajedeh

Summer 2008
two climbers from Hamedan Province, Iran also after their climb, lost their way to east ridge, near Yakhar Glacers and died.

Spring 2002
Jalal Froozan Rabooki from Tehran, the most famous Iranian climber, lost his way back and had bitter end, his body was found 6 months later in Yakhar Glacers.

Mt. Damavand South Route Danger Zone
Damavand South Route Danger Zone
Photo by Ardeshir Soltani

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Common mistakes in mt damavand climbing, difficulty and climbing grade, gps landmark and waypoint, mountaineering, how to climb, route and trail map, sulphur and volcanic activities, weather forecast, bad weather, winter climb, weather warning for foreign climbers, damavand weather, freezing temprature, climate, climbing season, facts, glacier, avalanche, how to climb, logitics for winter climb and ski expedition iran, timing, alert, warning, weather iran tehran, winter temperature, info avalanche and glacier, weather tehran iran, gps landmark, proper gear, wind chill, winter advice, safe retreat, mountain sickness, difficulty and climbing grade in winter, reaching the summit in the winter, info and support, equipment and gear, difficulty factors, disclaimer climbing can kill you, falls, avalanches, climbing map, google earth iran.

Danger Zone MDG31JAN10D
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damavand-haraz


Haraz
Haraz is a beautiful mountainous region in central Alborz Mountains in northen Iran, it is located midway capital city Tehran and the Caspian Sea. It attracts a great number of tourists each weekend, due its natural beauties and landscapes, it is well khown for Mt Damavand, Haraz Rivers, Haraz Valley, Haraz Road, Larijan Thermal Springs, Damavand and Ski AbAli Ski Resort, Cave Gol e Zard, Cave Moon and many more mountains, vilages, traditional restaurants and gardens and recreational places.

Haraz poppy fields, Photo by Ardeshir Soltani
Mountain poppy fields in Haraz Area
Photo by Ardeshir Soltani

Mountains
Mt Damavand, the most prominent peak of Iran, the second highest volcano in the northen hemisphere, the highest summit in Middle East and the highest volcano in Asia is located in Haraz Area. The other major mountain in the area is Mount Do Berar (Do Berar means two brothers).

Thermal Springs
There are many minral hot water, spa and thermal springs in this district with particular therapeutic qualities, they are mainly located on the Damavand Volcano's flanks, such as:

- Larijan Thermal Spring, Abe Garm Larijan
- Baeijan Thermal Spring, Abe Garm Baeijan
- Esteleh Sar Thermal Spring, Abe Garm Esteleh Sar
- Ab e Ask Thermal Spring, Abe Garm Abe Ask
( Abe Garm = Hot Water, Thermal Spring )

Haraz Valley, River and Road at base of Damavand, Photo by A. Soltani
Haraz Valley, Haraz River and Haraz Road at base of Mt. Damavand
Photo by A. Soltani

Haraz Road
This road is one of the 4 main roads which connects capital city Tehran to the Caspian Sea in north of Iran, it is a mountain road which passes through Haraz Valley alongside the Haraz River. Usually there is a heavy traffic jam on this narrow main road during Iranain holidays and weekends (Thursday and Friday), so the road is turned to one way direction by police in the peak oftraffice to ease the movement of the vehicles.

Haraz Valley
This valley is one of few to cut through Alborz Mountain Range, it is famous for its natural beauties, it is the longest valley of the Iran, there are many beautiful town and villages in this valley, such as Abali, Polour, Lar Dam Lake, Reyneh Town, Hezar Dasht, Dasht e Mosha, Nava, Vana, Lasem,...the climate of this tourist zone is quite cool in summer, cold and freezing with good snowfall in winter. The charming natural attractions in the area can be reached by car or on foot.

Haraz River
It takes its name from the Haraz region, It flows northward through Haraz Valley in Mazandaran Province, Iran, flowing through Amol city, and ends to the Caspian Sea, it is about 100 km long, the main source of this river is Mount Damavand.

Polour Village in Winter, Polour and Haraz Road, Photo by Ardeshir Soltani
Polour Village Winter View, Polour Haraz Road
Photo: A.Soltani


Road Map Tehran To Caspian Sea
Road Map Tehran To Caspian Sea

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Haraz MDG31JAN10C
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damavand-activity


Volcanic Activity
Volcanic Activity od Volcano Damavand Iran
Located in middle of Alborz Mountains in northern Iran, this young dormant volcano is approximately 400 km3 and is formed mostly during the Holocene geological time, no historical eruption is recorded, the geologists believe that the last eruption goes back to about 10,000 years ago and the the youngest lava flows date back to approx 7000 years ago and no evidence of eruption in the past 1000 year.

This composite cone stratovolcano started some sign of new activty in spring 2007, the hot springs located on the volcano's south flanks become warmer and a big new vent is formed near the summit crater with high fumarolic activity, it releases a great amount of smoke and hot sulphuric gases.

Volcano Damavand Iran
Damavand Volcano Iran
New activity, the red substance are visible
Photo by Ardeshir Soltani

On 19 June 2007, we saw this new changes for the first time, besides sulphur gas and steam, some red material is coming out of the new vent, we are not certain about this red substance, it does not look like lava but it coud be melted sulphur. We believe this new activity worth some study and research.

Climbing Tip
There is no problem for climbing when the wind is in favuor, but if the wind blows against you, it may cause some problem, either on the south or the east route, so when arriving in this smoke zone, modify your track somehow to avoid the sulphur gas.
If you smell and feel too much gas, you can make a simple gas mask by spreading a little vinegar to a handkerchief, it will help you to pass the area, oxygen mask is not compulsory, it is optional.

Volcanic Activity Damavand
To pass the volcanic zone of Damavand you may use a vinegar mask!


This Video Clips showes the new activity of the volcano on 19 June 2007.

Warning
Without sufficient equipment and oxygen mask, it is not safe to go close to the new vent for photography or any other reason, becouse if the wind direction changes, you get caught in the poison gas.

Location and Elevation of South Face Summit
Altitude 5671m - by my personal GPS measurement 5645m
Latitude 35-57-19 N
Longitude 52-06-36 E

Damavand Volcano Iran
Volcano Damavand Iran

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Flanks, fumaroles, steam vents, summit crater, cooling magma body, continuing activity, dormant, extinct volcano, summit lake, top pool, young lava flow, summit and flank vents, historical eruptions, volcano's flanks, fumaroles, narrow summit, iran nature and eco 2010, popular hiking, climbing, and skiing destinations, nature, ecosystem and iran mountains, gps waypoint, route and trail map, damavand volcano, the natural beauty of iran volcanos.

Volcanic Activity MDG31JAN10B
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damavand-contact

Contact Us

Please confirm when you receive our first email reply because we have had problems lately with emails intercepted by spam-filters set too high.

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Mailto A. Soltani
Solard [at] gmail [dot] com

Contact-us Damavand Info

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Damavand Mountain
Damavand Mountain Iran
Photo by A. Soltani


Disclaimer

Insurance Important Note
We strongly recommended you to have all risk insurance that covering medical and evacuation from remote area. The insurance should cover also helicopter flight that could occured in Mt. Damavand expedition.

Disclaimer
Using any of our Services or Guide and working with us means you have read this topic and you are agree to our terms. Clients and users expressly agrees that use of the Mount Damavand Guide (MDG - http://damavandmt.blogspot.com/) and Damavand Info (MDIC - http://www.damawand.de/), website/weblog or services is at the client's/ user's sole risk.

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User specifically acknowledges that MDG is not liable for the, offensive or illegal conduct of other subscribers or third-parties in cases including but not limited to any interactive communication on or through the site and that the risk of injury from the foregoing rests entirely with user(s) and clients. MDG is not responsible for the content of external internet sites.
Read more in Disclaime.

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Mt. Damavand Iran
Mt Damavand Iran
Photo by A. Soltani

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29 January 2010

damavand-winter-climb


Winter Climb
Damavand is a popular mountain for summer Climbs, despite its mild climbing slopes and easy technical routes, without a doubt, it is one of the most difficult peaks in the world in winter.
Due to proximity to the Caspian Sea and wet Climate, there is a heavy winter snow fall in the area, further more strong winds and freezing temprature makes winter ascend to this summit very difficult.

Supports and logistics to the mountain is another major problem in this season, because cars can not go up as far as the Camp 2 Base and it is impossible to use mules in the area, so climbers must carry their equipments themselves or hire an expert sherpa.

Mt. Damavand Iran
Mount Damavand Winter view from Polour Village
Photo by A. Soltani

The south route is the only recommended side for winter ascends, other faces are more difficult, dangerous, and risky in winter. The winter climate may start in the region from November till March, the amount of snow varies each year and it is recommended to check the snow condition in advance before your arrival.

All refuge and shelters are open during the whole climbing seasons, but camp2 base shelter and Camp 3 Bargah refuge may need some cleaning from snow and removing dirt and garbage, if you are lucky enough to find them under ice and snow!

For a safe and successful attempt in winter, you must be very experienced and well supplied and equipped, plus good timing and suitable Weathe, well supported logisticaly and prepared for any dangerous and unexpected condition in the area.

Warning
Weather condition in winter could change to disastrous quickly, with wind speed more than 100km/h and freezing temprature bellow -60°C, almost similar to the south pole, you must be well-practiced for such a difficult climate either for a winter climb or ski mountaineering expeditions , and further more be aware that rescue team and medical facilities and support are not around in case of injury or emergency requirement, and you should just rely on a good luck for surviving, so extra care should be taken in winter and it is done by your own risk only.

Reinhold Messner, in 1970 attempted a winter climb to Mt Damavand, but he failed due to bad weather, he realized that despite lack of technical difficulties, is not an easy mountain for hiking and the challenge is highly depended to the weather conditional .

Reference
Read the original comment in Wikipedia in Deutsch:
Reinhold Messner ist im Jahre 1970 bei seinem Versuch, den Damāvand zu besteigen, aufgrund von widrigen Wetterverhältnissen gescheitert; daran erkennt man, dass der Damāvand trotz mangelnder technischer Schwierigkeiten kein einfacher Wanderberg, sondern eine große konditionelle und hochalpine Herausforderung ist.

Mt. Damavand Winter
Mt Damavand Winter Climb, Photo by A. Soltani

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Damavand weather, temprature, climate, climbing season, facts, glacier, avalanche, how to climb , info, logitics and services for climb and ski expedition iran, timing , transport tehran, route and trail map, tour, alert, warning, weather iran tehran, temperature, facts, itinerary, info avalanche and glacier, transportation tehran iran, weather tehran iran, gps landmark, iran waypoint, proper gear, wind chill, technical route, appropriate whether, safe retreat, mountain sickness, proper accommodation, difficulty and climbing grade, reaching the summit, info and support, difficulty factors, consumed energy in winter, equipment and gear, ika airport tehran to mount damavand.

Winter Climb MDG29JAN10B
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damavand-services


Services
Welcome to MDG
We offer quality services for hiking & trekking, climbing, cultural and historical tours in Iran, we support incoming tourists with the best possible services available to ascend Mt Damavand or to hike the natural lanscapes, cultural and historical sites.

We organize a wide range of high quality tours covering a variety of outdoor activities based on either tailored made package or as a single service to enjoy your holiday trip. Let's know the exact logistic and support you need, and let's work together to finalize tour arrangements.

Hiking & trekking Damavand above clouds, Photo by A. Soltani
Hiking & trekking Mt Damavand Above Clouds
Photo by Ardeshir Soltani

Greeting
Our tour guides will greet and welcome you at IKA Airport or any other airport or borders in Iran.

Translator
Translator, interpreter for English or other major languages.

Acclimatization
Best hotel, mountain resorts, local home and villa, bed and breakfast.

Tour, Guide 2010
- Experienced guide for hiking & trekking and climbing.
- High skilled guide for winter climb and ski mountaineering.
- Mountain guide for Alborz and Zagros mountains.
- Nature, ecosystem, fauna and flora, natural attractions and travel guide.
- Outdoor recreation, outdoor tourism activity guide.
- Qualified tour leader for cultural and historical sites.
- Historical city tour guide for Isfahan, Kashan, Shiraz, Yazd, Kerman.
- Nomad tour guide Qashqaei, Bakhtiari, Kurd, Shah Savan, Turkman.

Reservation and booking
- Domestic airline, train and bus tickets.
- Transport, taxi, bus, mini bus, private car, jeep and landrover for mountain and deserts.
- Hotel, Camp, hut, local home and villa, hostel.
- Booking accomodation in Tehran, shiraz, Isfahan and villages near mountain.

Transfer and Transport
- Transfers from international airports to hotel.
- Ttransfer from/to IKAI and MehrAbad Airport to hotel.
- Transfer from hotel to any target and starting point of the mountain.
- Landrover, Jeep and 4WD patrol car + driver guide for deserts and mountains.
- Driver guide and private car for travel to Iran cities.
- Bus, mini bus, med bus, private car, taxi, van, van taxi for cities.

Equipment
Supporting you with camping and climbing gears for hiking & trekking tours.
- Food and drink, cooking equipments.
- Tent, mattress and sleeping bag.
- Mountain equipments, ski gears.
- GPS, maps, Head light, compass etc ....

Other Services
- Tailor made tours for group and individuals.
- Visa handling.
- Obtaining climbing permit for foreign climbers.
- Thermal springs baths, spa, mineral hot water.
- Porter, mule and sherpa, to carry your equipments to mount camps.
- Different kinds of hiking & trekking and outdoor activity tour package .
- Assistance for those who intend to visit Iran or transit with their personal car, van, camper caravan, bike or motorbike.

Mount Damavand, Photo by Ardeshir Soltani
Mt. Damavand Iran
Photo by A. Soltani

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Ski mountaineering tours guide mt damavand, nature, ecosystem and experienced mountain guide, transport to thermal spring, spa, porter and sherpa, cheap hotels, motel, hostel, mountain camp, hut, lodge, villages mount and eco tour guide, city guide isfahan, shiraz, tehran, tour 2010, ski, snowboard guide, cultural and historic guide, iran touring and tourism guide, persia cultural guide, cave guide, tour organizer tehran.

Services MDG29JAN10A
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27 January 2010

damavand-routes


Routes
Mt Damavand has 16 identified climbing routes on different faces with various climbing grades and difficulties, four of these routes are common for climbing, north, east, west and the south, each with a shelter/refuge at about 4000m, the north face which is the most difficult side has an extra shelter at 5000m. There are also some risky and none safe routes which are of less significant.

South Route
The south routh is the most popular side and many climber prefer to ascend from this face because it has some advantages such as very good huts, easy and quick accessibility and approach from Tehran, it is almost a shortcut to the mountain.

Difficulty and climbing grade
Route type is basic mountaineering, moderate walk-up and easy descend.

Campsites
Camp 1 Polour Hut
Camp 1 Reyneh Hut
Camp 2 Base Shelter, Goosfand Sara, Mosque
Camp 3 Bargah Sevom Shelter,
Camp 3 New Hut

How to go there
Tehran> Haraz Road> Polour Village> Camp1 Plour Hut> Base Camp
or
Mazandaran Province> Haraz Road> Reyneh Town> Camp1 Reyneh> Base Camp

Note
Most climbers who ascend to the summit from West, North East, or North Face prefer to descent from south face because of its easy descend footpaths !!

South Route Map Damavand
Mount Damavand South Route Map

West Route
This route has a very long access by car to the starting point and it is the second popular side of the mountain, but the distance from starting point to the Simorgh Camp is quite short.

Difficulty and climbing grade
It is a basic mountaineering, moderate walk-up, basic snow and cold, difficult descend.
(Farsi name for this camp is Panagah Simorgh).

Campsite
There is a new double stage shelter/refuge called Simorgh at about 4200m in this area.

How to go there
Tehran > Haraz Road> Polour Village> Camp1 Plour Hut> Simorgh Shelter

Note
Simorgh means Roc, the name comes from Iranian tales and refers to a gigantic legendary bird, said to carry off animals as big as elephants for his food.

East Route
This route also called the North-East Ridge, is the longest route to the summit and the third popular side of the mountain.

Difficulty and climbing grade
Route type is mountaineering with difficulty, hard ascend cold and windy, long descend.

Campsite
There is a shelter/refuge called Takht e Fereydoun Camp at about 43oom.
Persian name for this camp is : Panagah Takht e Fereydoun.

How to go there
Tehran > Haraz Road> Nandal Village> Takht e Fereydoun Shelter .

North Route
The north face is the most difficult side of the mountain.

Difficulty and climbing grade
Scramble mountaineering, steep, hard ascend, depending on season, cold and windy, snow & ice , difficult descend,

Campsites
There are two shelter/refuge on this route
Camp1 called 4000
Camp2 called 5000

GPS Landmark Table for Mt Damavand south route
Mt Damavand south route GPS Landmark Table

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Mt damavand camps, iran mountain camps, mount federation iran campsites, resorts, shelter, panagah, refuge, lodge, hotel, hostel, suite, mountain resort, north east camp panagah tahkt feridon shelter, tahkt e fereydon refuge, west camp panagah simorgh shelter, simorq refuge, first camp, second camp, mid camp, last camp, camp1 polour, camp1 reineh hut, camp2 base shelter, base camp refuge, goosfand sara, saheb al zaman mosque, camp3 bargah sevom refuge/shelter, camp3 bargah new hut.

Technical info, gps landmark, gps track, gps waypoint, gps guide, gps iran, gps landmark iran mountain, route and trail map, foot stamp, route news 2010 iran, route map, trail map, photo damavand, foto, picture, pic, video, news, google earth route, south, east, west, north face, google earth satellite image iran, virtual tour google earth, info iran, maps and signs, shelters and huts route map, trekking and expedition route map, hiking & trekking map, trail map, how to go, how to reach, how to climb, climbing route, tehran to damavand, distance tehran to, facts and figures.

Routes MDG27JAN10A
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25 January 2010

damavand-photo-2


Photo Gallery 2
A collection of picture and images for hiking & trekking, climbing Mount Damavand and Iran mountain, natural landscapes and outdoor recreation activities.

Damawand Summit 5671m Photo by A. Soltani
Mount Damāvand Summit 5671m
by A. Soltani

Damavand Fake Summit 5400m
Mt. Damawand Fake Summit, altitude 5400m
Ardeshir. Soltani

Demavand Base Camp 3050m, Photo by A. Soltani
Mt. Damāvand Base Camp Above Clouds
Damavand south route, altitude 3050m
by A. Soltani

Damavand Mt poppy fields, Photo by Ardeshir Soltani
Damawand Mountain poppy fields
by Ardeshir Soltani

Haraz Valley, River and Road at base of Damavand, Photo by A. Soltani
Haraz, Haraz Valley, Haraz River and Haraz Road at base of Demavand
by A. Soltani

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Photo Gallery 2 MDG25JAN10A
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24 January 2010

damavand-photo-3


Photo Gallery 3
Find beautiful photos for hiking and trekking, climbing and ski mountaineering Mt Damāvand, iran nature and ecosystem.

Mt Damavand Summer Shared Tour, Base Camp, Photo by Ardeshir Soltani
Beginning of a Mt Damavand Summer Shared Tour
Location: Base Camp 3050m, by A.Soltani

Final Steps to Mt Damavand Summit 5671m, Photo by Yaser Qodsi
Final Steps to Mt Damawand Summit 5671m
by Yaser Qodsi

Very Interesting Volcanic Lava Shapes on  Mt. Damavand!! Photo by Q. khorampour
Dino of Mt. Damāvand!! Interesting Volcanic Lava Shapes
by Q. khorampour

Above Clouds, Mt. Damavand Camp3 Bargah Sevom 4220m Photo by Ardeshir Soltani
Above Clouds, Mt. Damawand Camp3 Bargah Sevom 4220m
by Ardeshir Soltani"

A quick rest above clouds to take photos, Damavand tour, altitude 3200m Photo by A. Soltani
Damawand tour, A quick rest above clouds to take some photos
by A. Soltani

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Photo Gallery 3 MDG24JAN10A
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23 January 2010

damavand-ski


12 Days Ski Itinerary Damavand
A complete skitour package for Mt Damavand, hotel and camping, this itinerary is flexible, let's know the exact logistic and support you need and let's work together to finish a tailored-made tour to best suit your time and programme.

Introduction
• Mt Damavand Ski Mountaineering, summit of Middle East.
• Acclimatization Mt Tochal 400m, Ski tour.
• Discover the ski resorts around capital Tehran, Iran.

Ski Mount Damavand Iran
Damavand Ski Resort

Day 1: Arriving to Tehran
Greeting you at Tehran International Airport, IKA airport, and transfer to your Hotel in Tehran, quick sightseeing in Tehran, over night in hotel.

Day 2: To Mt Tochal Ski Resort
Drive to Velenjak, to Mt Tocha tele cabin, by gondola to Tochal Ski Resort, ski the whole day, over night in Tochal hotel 3800m.

Day 3: Mt Tochal Ski Resort
Full day ski in Tochal pist, climb to Mt Tochal peak, over night in Tochal hotel.

Day 4: Return Back To Tehran
Back to Tehran, short sightseeing in, over night in Tehran hotel.

Day 5: To Mount Damavand Ski Resort, First Camp
Drive to Polour Hut, Mt Damavand first camp, drive to nearby hights for ski and acclimatization, over night at Polour Hut.

Day 6: To Mt Damavand Ski Resort, Second Camp
Drive towards Camp2 Base, as much as car go, then start ascending and ski mountaineering, over night at Camp2 base.

Day 7: To Mt. Damavand Ski Resort, Third Camp
Climbing to 3rd camp, full day ski, over night in Camp3 New Hut.

Day 8: To Damavand Summit
Climbing toward the peak, ski down hill to camp3, camp2 and to the starting point, transfer to Camp1, over night at Polour Hut.

Day 9: Thermal Spring
Reserved day for bad weather or team being tired or we can go to Thermal Spring, over night in any camp.

Day 10: Drive Back To Tehran
Return back to Tehran, sightseeing in the capital, over night in hotel.

Day 11: Sightseeing in Tehran
Full day sightseeing in Tehran, big bazzar, museum and shopping, over night in Tehran hotel.

Day 12 : Departing Day to Your Country
Transfer to Tehran International Airport, IKA airport, fly to your country, tour ends.

Please note:
This is the land only itinerary, please make your own way to the tour starting point.

Included
• Permit fee for foreigners
• Accomedation in Camp1 Hut,
• Accomedation in Camp3 New Hut,
Camp3 New Hut is the best place for accomedation in the area
• All land transfers to and from Tehran
Transfer from IKA Airport or hotel to Camp1 Polour Camp and back
Transfer from Camp1 - Polour Camp to Camp2 Base as much as car can go, and back
• Camp1 Hut & Camp3 New Hut charges
• High skilled ski guide
• Hot meal in camps, food: breakfast, lunch, dinner, soft drink & cooking gear
• Lunch box during the way
• Hotel in Tehran
• Sleeping bag and tent if necessary
• Termal Spring in Larijan Town

Not Included
• Domestic Flights - we may buy your domestic ticket.

Mount Damavand Ski Mountaineering Starting Point
Mt Damavand Ski Mountaineering Starting Point

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Itinerary Ski 12 Days MDG23JAN10A
Copyright © Mount Damavand Guide . All rights reserved.

20 January 2010

damavand-glacier


Glacier
Mt Damavand Glaciers
There are some major glacers on Mt Damavand, these huge mass accumulation of snow and ice are formed during ages and are the main source of water for Talkh Roud River and the Lar Dam Lake, one of the main reservoir of fresh water for capital city of Tehran.
These glaciers are mostly located on east and north face. It appears that some of these glacier cannot qualify as a true permanent glacier because they may disappears during a very hot and dry summer.

Mount Damavand winter view
Mount Damavand Iran

The most important glaciers are:
East and North East Face Glaciers
- In the enormous Yakhar Valley in the east side of this volcano there is large glacier called Yakhar which is the most well-known and the biggest glacier of the mountain, it starts from about 3500 meters high to just below the summit, it has was climbed many times in summer but noon in the winter, this glacer is the main soure of Talkhrood River, ending in caspian Sea.
- Chalchal Glacier and Arosakha, are other glaciers ones that can be mentioned on these sides.

North Face Glaciers
Two large glaciers are located on the north face, called Dobi Sel and Sioleh, the north route ridge passes between these two glaciers, which makes this route colder copmared to the other routes.

South Face Glacier
There is a small glacer on the south face in Kafar Valley (Kafar Dareh), called South Glacier or Kafar Dareh Glacier. It is situate between south route ridge and Mollakhoron Ridge, it passes by Damavand Icefall .

West Face Glaciers
There are some small and none important glaciers on the west side which do not have a particular names.

Summit Glacier
There is a small glacier on the volcano crater, called summit glacer, mostly frozen, but in a hot summer you may see a little water in the crater, this one sounds remarkably to a frozen Lake.

Damavand Iran
Mt Damavand, Iran

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Glacier MDG20JAN10A
Copyright © Mount Damavand Guide . All rights reserved.

18 January 2010

damavand-faq1


FAQ - Part 1
Frequently Asked Questions Mt Damavand

Befor asking a question, please try to find your answer here, if you couldn't find an appropriate answer then feel free to ask , we will reply to all emails who have indicated Mt Damavand in the subject.

Acclimatization
Q- How much aclimatisation do we need for mt damavand?
A- Before we talk about acclimatization , please give us more information about your team and the individual fitness!
What kind of mountains have you climbed so far ?
What was the highest elevation ?
when was your last climb ?
Where do you live ? what is the elevation above sea level there ?
Do you have any extra weight ?
Or any kind of sickness ?
your age ?
Please give any information which you think might be helpful in this regard .

Q- Do you have any alternative programme to acclimatize on another mountain prior to Damavand for one week duration?
A- Yes we have different and more relaxing intinerary for more aclimatisation for foreign climbers.

Q- Would it be better to stay one day in Polour camp3 for more time to acclimatise?
A- Yes, good idea.

Q- i am unfamiliar with the acclimatization thats neede?
A- Could you please tell me more about yourself and your fitness ? if possible we recommend to climb mountain about 4000 m height and sleep few nights there.

Mt Damavand Camp 2 Base, Goosfand Sara, Photo by Ardeshir Soltani
Damavand Base Camp, Goosfand Sara
Photo by Ardeshir Soltani

Accommodation
Q- I also want to ask if you can advise me with low budget, but affordable accommodation in Teheran.
A- There are some low price guest hoses in Tehran, visit topice hotels.

Q- If we stay over night in base camp/Godfandsara, we have to use tent plus sleeping bag ?
A- Yes tent and sleeping bag and not the shelter in summer, generaly we do not use or suggest this camp for tours. See also our advise in Warning .

Q- Can we rent a tent in Polour, we would like to sleep in the tent in Camp3
A- No problem, we can order it to be ready before your arrive there .

Q- Is any suitale accomodation place in camp2 base damavand.
A- No.

Q- What do you think? Is it better to rent a tent or use the hut in camp3 ?
A- Please remember in case of bad weather and emergency, no ordinary tent can stand there, but you are safe in the hut.

Q- Please give me ---- hotel Tel no.
A- Visit Hotels.

Q- Is it possible to hire a tent at camp3 in crowded seasons?
A- Yes, but you should book in advance.

Q- is a sleeping bag is enought to stay the night in a tent at campsite3 in summer?
A- Yes, a suitable one is quite enough.

Q- Is there another shelter you can recommend in stead of Camp 2 Base for acclimatization ?
A- Camp 1 Polour and Camp 3 Bargah hut .

Q- Is it true that “the faster you ascend the less chance the body has to acclamatize”.
A- Yes it is true, we usually suggest everyone to go slow.

Q-We need Hotel for our accommodation in Tehran and Abe Garm e Larigan.
A- No problem, choose which kind of Hotel do you need in the hotel page, we will book for you.

Q- Could you possibly organize an accommodation for us in Lasem for three nights (including breakfast and dinner) in May or April?
A- Yes, but not sure about breakfast and dinner, because it is a remote area in winter.

Arrival in Tehran
Q- what kind of accomodation will be at Camp 1 & Camp 3 (I think we will not have to sleep at Camp 2)
A- To have some idea about these campsites, you may visit photo gallery, quite good places, you will have a good accomodation there. You better forget about Camp2 Base see also Warning .

Q- What is the best way to go to hotel after arriving in Tehran ?
A- We may greet you at airport and take you to your hotel, or take you directly to a mountaineering, or you can take airport taxi to your hotel.

Q- Can I easıly get a taxı to my hotel from Tehran aırport after mıdnıght?
A- We can take you to your hotel, or you can use airport taxi, depends to you .

Mt Damavand Camp3 Bargah Sevom Shelter, Photo by A.Soltani
Damavand Camp3 Bargah Sevom Shelter
Photo by A. Soltani

Camps and Huts
Q- Are there any beds, toilet, can we use the hot water (sowers ) in camps?
A- In camp1 hut there are: beds, toilet, hot water, shower, kitchen and cooking equipments.
In camp3 hut there are: beds, toilet ( outside), kitchen and cooking equipments.

Q- Can you please tell me what facilities are available at Polour camp and Bargah camp. For example, are there matresses to sleep on? Is there hot water available for making food or do we have to bring our own water and stove?
A- Polour Hut and Bargah Sevom Hut have most of the mentioned facilities, for more info see related topics.

Q- can we use the private room in hut in August? Or we should use shared room with the other climbers ?
A- You should book private rooms it in both huts in advance because August is a very crowded season.

Q- are there possibilities to boil water in the huts without bringing own stove?
A- Yes, there are kitchen in the huts which you can use.

Q- Any costs for camping in Camp2 Gosfansara?
A- we do not recommend camping in this palce in summer.

Q- Can hut beds and rooms be booked via you in advance?
A- Yes, no problem.

Q- But there are new Hut in Bargah (Camp No.3), aren't they ?
A- Yes, and we book and use new hut private rooms for our clients.

Q- I would like to ask if there is any Hut in Gosfandsara (Camp N.o2 ) ?
A- No hut , just a shelter which is not suitable for use.

Q- If we book a place in the new hut, do we need to bring our mattress ?
A- No, the idea is that you climb with lighter equipmets.

Q- Is there any beds in damavand huts ?
A- Yes, bunk beds in camp 1 hut and camp 3 new hut.

Q- Will this be ok to use Camp3 Barga Sevom in June, because it still isn't really high season?
A- No problem..

Q- We would like to stay one night in the shelters at Base camp in july.
A- We do not recommend Camp 2 Base , see also Warning.

Q- please tell what is in Camp 2 base ?
A- There is a shelter and a mosque, and a sheepfold, see also topic Camp 2 Base.

Q- I am planing to use the new hut in August, is it vacant ?
A- It is crowded in August, it is a good idea to book a place in advance.

Q- Is the new constructed hut ready by now?
A- Yes.

Q- can you tell me how many people new hut can accomodate?
A- About 100, it is quite big.

Q- Are there beds avalable in huts?
A- Yes, in Polour Hut and camp3 new Hut, room + bed.

Q- to what extent would we need outside (expert) help to climb and to reach the 3 camps before the summit?
a- In a clear day you can find your way and the route with no problem.

Q- do we need to book the huts?
A- Yes, it is recommende to reserve hut in crowded seasons. .

Q- We are planning to go in May, will be new shelter in Camp3 open for this time?
A- Yes, I think so.

Q- In May can we spend the night in the old shelter? What can be found in the old one?
A- Yes you can , nothing only empty bunk beds.

Q-Can you help us to book the accomodation in Polour Hut?
A- Yes, we can reserve for you.

Q- Is it possible to spend a night after the climb in the Rineh mountain federation hut?
A- Yes it is possible, but Camp 1 Polour is a much better place.

Q- In winter when the gravel road is closed, is there any possibility to sleep somwhere else other than in tents?
A- From Camp1 polour you go by car towards camp2 Base, as far as car can go, after one hour trekking you will reach the camp2, and from camp2 by 5 to 7 hours you may reach camp 3 which is the last camp. So if you strat early morning from camp1, you will reach camp3 in time.

Q- We would like to trek as much as possible, do we have to go to base camps with cars or can we trek?
A- You may also trek 17.7 Km without using cars, it is not recommended.

Q- How long will it take if we choose to only trek from camp1 to camp3 as opposed to take cars?
A- Depends what is your final destination? Trekking or going to the summit?!

Q- I think we will go from camp1 to camp2 by foots for better acclimatisation.
A- Please visit Facts And Figuers
- Camp1 Polour to Camp2 Base distance 17.7 Km, it is not recommend.

Q- Would it be better to walk from camp 1 to 2 and to 3, rather than take a car?
A- Please visit Facts And Figuers
- Camp1 Polour to Camp2 Base distance 17.7 Km, we do not recommend because we do not know about your team fitness and for sure your team will be very tired for the summit day.

Q- We want to trek Damavand, so from the foot to the summit. Instead of driving to camp 1 and 2, we would like to trek. And continue trekking to summit. After we will descend and return to UAE.
A- If you intend to climb to the summit, I beleive you better to do some modification to this and your itinerary, because you are living at the sea level, to avoid AMS you need more acclimatization, and going to the peak without using the camps is very difficult for your team.

Damavand New Hut 4250m, Photo by A. Soltani
Mt Damavand New Hut
Photo by A. Soltani

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FAQ Part 1 MDG18JAN10A
Copyright © Mount Damavand Guide . All rights reserved.

damavand-faq2


FAQ - Part 2
Frequently Asked Questions Damavand

Climbing
Q- please be so kind to advise me about the technical part and how hard is the climb...
A- Mount Damavand south face is not a technical routh in summer, as far as you are fit enough and know ordinary climbing, have ordinary equipments and listen to your guide advices, you have the chance of success.

Q- We are not experienced climbers but we are in good physical conditions. Do you think that is a problem?
A- We are glad to share our experience with newcomers, a good physical conditions is great. Climb to the top of always starts with the first step !!

Q- how many days are required to climb?
A- In summer condition 2 to 4 days climb is usually enough, but in other season and condition you need more.

Q- how long is the duration of round trip?
A- 2 to 4 days.

Q- I was thinking to make the trip in 3 to 4 days, starting on … from Tehran. Does that sound possible?
A- Yes that sounds good .

Q- I am making plans to come mid-October. How many days do I need to climb ?
A- Depends to the weather, at this time of the year usually takes 3 to 4 days.

Q- What route are we taking to the summit and what techniques does it require? Do we need crampons and ice axes? or is it merely a tough and long trek?
A- South route, ordinary climbing and trekking, you don not need crampons and ice axes in summer.

Mt Damavand Summit 5671m
Last Step to Damavand Summit 5671m
Photo by Yaser Qodsi

Cost and Price
There are too many questions about the cost and price, we are not able to give a prcise reply without having complete info about your trip.

Q- We would of course like to know a little about the prices.
A- Your timing and itinerary determines the price and cost of your trip, it is recommended to clarify in what season you decide ascending, fix your programme, choose your itinerary, and let us know more details such as arrival day, number of clombers in your group and logistic you need so we can give you the best possible services and discuss the price.

some sample:
Q- How much will the guided trip cost?
Q- how much is the costs per group or per person
Q- How much will it cost for 2 people to go to the top as a private group?
Q- What is the cost From Tehran to Damavand Mount, back to Tehran ? everything included.

Q- Does it affect (the per person) price if the number of participant in a group decreases?
A- Yes, any change in number of the group or itinerary will affect the price.

Q- how much will it be for a shared group?
A- Visit Event Calendar and then Contact us.

Q- How much does it cost to hire a porter.
A- It depend to the season, amount of snow and the route conditinon,

Q- How much does it cost to hire a guide.
A- Low in summer, high in winter and off season.

Q- What would the cost be for transport from Teheran airport straight to camp 1 ?
A- please let us know the exact number of your team, so we can give you the best possible services and price.

Q- What are your fees/costs? Can you please give a breakdown of visa, supplies, porter service, transportation, and guide separately?
A- Please let me know the exact number of your team, arrival day, itinerary and logistic you need so I can give you the best possible services and price. It is recommended that you first fix you programme, so we can discuss the details later.

Q- Please tell me the price if we bring our tents. I mean: transport + stay in the camps?
A- In a full package tour the price is for everthing you may bring your tent if you like, it does not effect the price.

Q- Please also let us know how much you would charge for airport pickup and transport to Polour.
A- Depends to the number of your group and you arrival date and time.

Q-What is the cost for a guide up the mountain?
A- Price for a high skilled experienced English speaking guide vary in different seasons.

Q- Do you also know how much it costs to rent a tent on location? It could be cheaper than camps.
A- While there are so good camps and huts in the area why do you need tents in none crowded season?

Q- Could you tell me the prices (hiring sticks, sleeping bag and tent)?
A- Resonable price!

Crowd
Q- What are the most crowded days for Mt Damavand in summer?
A- Most crowded days are Iranian weekend,Thursday and Friday, and holidays, best days to be away from the crowds in summer are Iranian midweek. See also Crowd.

Currency/Money
Q- Can I use ATM system and my credit card in Iran?
A- No, due to boycott of Iranian banks, you can not use ATM system and your credit card, it means, no credit cards, no travellers cheques. Cash Only.

Q- Shall I bring US dollars with me or Euro. Which is best ?
A- Both are ok, but Euro if preferred in Iran.

Q- can I pay in US dollars in Iran?
A- Yes, but Euro is preferred.

Q- Is the money/ currency of Saudi (Saudi riyals) easily accepted there?
A- No, only Euro, USD and Iranian Rials.

Q- In what currency Can we pay the mountain permit ?
A- Euro, USD and Iranian Rials.

Driver
Q- can the transfer driver speak English from IKA Airport to Tehran?
A- Yes, if you request for English speaking driver too.

Equipment and Gear
Equipment Necessary
Q- Are crampons still necessary in winter?
A- Yes.

Q- is it necessary to take a harness in winter?
A- you may bring in case you need it.

Q- is it necessary to take a plastic boots or is sufficient to have a boots for the glacial?
A- Ordinay mountain boot is sufficient in summer.

Q- Do we need crampon and ice-axe in winter? Maybe trekking stiks will be enought? Please - advice me! You know it better.
A- Yes, see also winter equipment.

Q- kindly be informed that we are all well prepared with the required equipments.
A- See also required Equipment List.

Q- any suggestions about clothing?
A- Have enough warm clothing , see also Equipment .

Q- Do you think we will need ice axe and crampons fro Feb ? We are planning to bring it.
A- Please bring all necessary equipments.

Q- what sort of stove fuel is available in Iran? (and what is the common stoves used)
A- Almost all kind of fuel you can find In Iran. The most common one is Butane Gas Stove.

Q- We will have personal equipment, all of us will have trekking shoes and clothes,
A- Ok , that sounds quite good.

Q- Do we need crampons, ice-axes and rope to climb the south route in the end of june?
A- No you do not need those , the route is ok in June.

Q- How much "logistics" do you think we need? I expect that we bring sleeping bags and all hiking gear with us. We may bring food for 3 days as well as a stove.
A- I believe you have the necessary logistics with you.

Q- What special equipment we would need for the climb in summer.
A- No special equipment is neccesary at this time of the year, only ordinary mount climbing equipments is enough.

Q- I don't see cramp and ice axe in the equipment list, does it mean it is useless?
A- You do not need those equipments in summer season, just ordinary tools are enough.

Q-Do I need double plastic boots in Oct. ?
A- depends to the weather and the footpath condition, usually you do not need it at this time of the year, but if you have one, take it with you, we decide it on the last day before the climb.

Q- What other gear must I bring for an October climb?
A- The same as Ararat ! ( the client comes from Ararat ).

Q- I have to decide whether or not to bring crampons with me... is there any chance I may need crampons middle of October?
A-In less than 10% of the climbs you may need it. But you may bring it with you. We can decide on the last day before the climb.

Equipment Buy/Rent
Q- Does Tehran have a number of outfitters that carry necessary gear so I might buy these things on arrival?
A- Yes you can find all your needs in Tehran, you just need one (or two) extra day(s) for shopping in Tehran.

Q- Do you know if it is possible to buy gas catrige in Tehran/Polour?
A- Yes, you may buy it in Tehran and Polour Camp.

Q- I also wonder if there is a possibility to rent some gears like tent,mat.
A- Yes, no problem in summer.

Q- Do you know where can I buy gas bottle in Iran ?
A- There are many sport shops in this area: Vali Asr Ave., Near Moniriyeh Sq. Tehran. But if you use huts you may not need those because you may find cooking equipments!

Q- Is it possible to rent ice axes in the area?
A- No, I don`t think so.

Q- can we hire a small gas cooker as well from you?
A- Yes , no problem.

Q- Can you help us in renting or selling a gas-stove (As I've heard the european style
gas-stoves does'nt work)
A- We may supply you gas-stoves or gas cartridge.

Q- Is it possible to buy fuel to multifuel burners (primus) there ?
A- Yes fuel ( benzine )is easy to find anywhere in Iran .

Q- how to buy some basic logistics support in Iran ?
A-You can find any thing you need in Tehran.

Q- is it possible to buy water and some food in Polour?
A- Yes you can buy water and some food there .But if you need some special food, Tehran is recommended.

Q- Is it possible to buy the sleeping bag in Iran or should i bring my own?
A- Depends to you , you can also buy in Tehran ?

Q- is there always enough equipment for rent in July (tent and sleeping bag?)
A- No , some days in july it is so crowded that you can not find these equipments. So it is recommended that you book (reserve) them in advance or bring your owns .

Q- Where can we find Sleeping pads, etc..A tent?
A- you can hire (rent) at Bargahe Sevom in summer.

Q- Can you tell me if I can rent equipment anywhere...only a sleeping bag and a tent...?
A- usually in summer you can rent these equipments in Pargahe Sevom ( 4220m ).

Q- We will only need camping equipment.
A- We will support you, no problem.

Q- Can you supply trekking poles or ice axe if needed? do I need to bring crampons?
A- Yes we can supply trekking pole and ice axe ,Depends to the weather , usually we wont need ice axe and crampons ?

Mt Damavand Popularity and Crowd
Mt Damavand Popularity and Crowd, Location Damavand Base Camp
Photo by Ardeshir Soltani

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FAQ Part 2 MDG18JAN10B
Copyright © Mount Damavand Guide . All rights reserved.

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