13 February 2010

damavand-photo7


Photo Gallery 7
Beautiful photos Iran Mountain.
Photo gallery 2010 Mt Damavand and Iran nature.

Damawand Camp Base, Amir Mohammad pour
Amir Mohammadpour
Base Camp, Mt Damawand Iran

Demavand Peak, Ali Najafi
Ali Najafi
very relaxed at Mt Demavand Summit
Photo By A. Soltani

Mt. Demavand Peak, Ali Najafi
Ali Najafi
Mt. Damawand Peak

Demavand Camp3 Bargah Sevom, Salim Shaloum (Shalom)
Salim Shaloum (Shalom)
Preparing food in his tent
Damawand Camp3 Bargah Sevom

Mt. Damavand Camp2 Base, Ramin Ketabi
Ramin Ketabi (nickname Ramin Messner !)
Mount Damawand Base Camp
Photo By A. Soltani

Mt. Damavand Iran
Base Camp Mt Demavand Iran
Photo Gallery by A. Soltani

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11 February 2010

damavand-climbing-food2


Food
Climbing Food for Mt Damavand - Part 2
As you gain altitude and reach the Camp3 Bargah Sevom, you may lose your apetite and hunger and food can become less tasty and sometimes you should force yourself to eat or drink something, the higher you go, the more difficult becomes eating.

Water boils at a lower temperature above 4000 metres, it means that food would take more time to cook, so do not use raw beans, lentils etc, because it would take too much time and fuel to cook them. Find ready foods as alternatives, try instant foods which require a few added minutes to cook, these food are easy to find in the markets. Check expiry-dates .

When deciding on what kind of climbing food you may consider:
- easy to carry.
- easy to cook, nutritious with quick cooking .
- enough calories and vitamins.

The more real food you eat at altitude the better your body will perform. Bring enough to eat, weight loss is a fact on Mt Damavand, at that altitude your metabolism rate go up by 10%, and typically you lose weight around 2-3 kgs, drink plenty of water.

If possible prepare your own food with ingredients that you can get from local supermarkets, it is a good idea to have some fresh food with you too, you need about 100g meat & cheese per day. Keep eating a normal volume of food, it is not a right time to diet! But avoid fat.

Carbohydrates are the main component in climbing food, reducing carbs before a climbing will cause your endurance to drop, fructose and glucose are simple sugars and easy to digest, and provide a good source of quick energy. Honey is an easy digest long-burning energy, it is mainly source of natural sugar, fructose, glucose, natural vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants, pack as lightly as you can.

Garlic is very good for altitude adaptation, it makes blood thin, most climber eat garlic, but do not eat too much and do not be worry about the smell, because you’re on the Volcano Damavand and you will forget all about it soon when you reach the volcanic area and smell sulphur gas.

Mt. Damavand Climbing Food
Climbing Food for Mount Damavand Iran

AMS
Generaly speaking, it is a very good sign if you have a good appetite on Damavand Mountain and specially above 4000 m, it means you are quite well and away from AMS, but if you get mountain sickness, you will loss your appetite and you can not eat or drink.

On the Climb
You may eat Biskuites, sweet, nuts, energy bars, powder energy drinks, candy bars, sports bars and jelly, chocolate.

Beakfast
Bon appetit! Bread, honey, cheese, peanut butter, eggs, fried eggs, Jam, tea or coffe, fresh or dried milk.

Lunch and Dinner
Enjoy your meal! Bread, mashed potatoes, soups, dry soups, cereals, instant rice, noodles, macaroni, pasta, sardines, tuna, potatoes, eggs, vegetables, dry potatoes, pudding mixes, instant hot cereal, instant rice, dried fruits, dried meat, salami, cheese.

Recommendation
One Day Prior to the Summit Day
- do not eat too much at night.
- stop eating one our before you go to sleep.
- keep walking 15 minuts after you dinner.
- never eat fat food on the mountain.

On the Summit Day
- Before the kick off, have a good breakfast plus two or three cups of tea or coffee add sugar.
- During the way eat sweet, cookie , biscuit , chocolate, energy bar
- You need at least 1.5 letters of water.
- Always avoid food fats.

Not Recommended
These foods are not recommended few days before or during your climb.
- Butter
- Cream
- Fat foods
- Pizza
- Some nuts like pistachio
- Some processed cheese

Useful Links:
ABC of Mountaineering, Climbing Food
Mount Everest by Climbers, Food
Climbing, Energy Food Review
Himalman’s Weblog, High Altitude Food – Climbing Food
Indoor Climbing, Prepare for a Rock Climbing Competition

Mt Damavand poppy fields, Photo by Ardeshir Soltani
Damavand Mountain poppy fields
Photo by A. Soltani

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damavand-climbing-food1


Food
Climbing Food for Mt Damavand - Part 1
Climbing high altitude such as Mount Damavand is a physical challenge and can be very exhausting, you should be mentally and physically ready for such a tough climb, the body will became exhausted as you gradually go up, you may help yourself by replenishment of the lost energy by eating and drinking proper food and fluids while climbing.

In a single climbing day you may burn up to 6K calories, it is more than you can compensate at the time. It is common to loss weight at an altitude like this mountain, almost all climber who have climbed Mt Damavand say that they have lost some weight, about 2 to 3 Kgs.

By eating proper food with the right amount of nutrients needed and easy to get down, will help your body to recover and get ready for the next days and therefore ideal as climbing food during you expedition, easy to carry foods to last you a day with enough calories and vitamins, but may not be suited to your taste.

Mt Damavand Guide
Mt Damavand iran

it is suggested to try out different foods before you go to a high altitude mountain, it is no good packing something you have never tried before, maybe you will not like it, and taste it in advance becouse if you don’t like it at home, you won’t like it on the mountain too, bring foods you enjoy.

Down before you start your trekking, fresh food is usually found everywhere, in the restaurant, hotel, supermarkets and local shops, make the most of these food to compensate the lost energy by eating properly before and after the climb.

All Useful foods
The following is general guidelines for all useful climbing food for any high mountain, you may bring different kinds of food for high camps and on the climbs, the food should be easy to carry and should contain carbohydrate, proteine, mineral and vitamins to give you enough calories, but may not be suited to your taste, rememmber avoid fat.

- bread, pasta, potatoes, rice, pasta casseroles, macaroni.
- fruits, dried fruits, raw carrots, vegetables.
- soups, instant soups, tortellini, cereals and oatmeal.
- cheese, tubed chease, peanut butter, jam, honey, eggs, boiled eggs.
- tinned meals, dried cheese & ham, tinned ham, hard salami, canned tuna, salmon and sardines.
- sweets, hot chocolate powder, milk powder, coffee and tea, chocolate, marzipan, snacks, candy,chocolate, candy bars, nuts, crackers, sports bars and sports Jelly,

Useful Links:
ABC of Mountaineering, Climbing Food
Mount Everest by Climbers, Food
Climbing, Energy Food Review
Himalman’s Weblog, High Altitude Food – Climbing Food
Indoor Climbing, Prepare for a Rock Climbing Competition

Mt Damavand Climbing Food
Mount Damavand Climbing Food

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08 February 2010

damavand-permit


Permit
Besides your visa process to enter some countries around the world, as a foreign climbers you may need some special permision for climbig to some well-known mountains too. Mt Damavand is among those famous mounts which need permit either for climbing or ski mountaineering. Mount Climbing Federation of Iran asks all foreigner who intend to attempt this mountain to pay for climbing permit.

The cost of permit fee is 50 USD per person for all foreigners regardless of their nationality.

The payment should be down to the representative of the mt federation or your tour leader in advance. When you travel to the mountain through a climbing tour, make sure the permit fee is included it the charges, but if you travel alone, pay the permit to the representive and get a ticket.


Damavand Mountain Iran
Mt. Damavand Iran
Photo Anosh Soltani

It is not recommended to try to cheat the permit by going to other ways and by-passing the unusual route, because the representive is impolite and not tolerable in this regard and may try to get the fee by immoral ways. Unfortunately there has been some quarrel and misunderstanding between the foreign climbers and the federation representives in the past. See also Warning .

What a shame! We condemn such behaver to foreign climbers, and on the behalf of Mount Climbing Society in Iran, we are very sorry and ashamed of this kind behaver by the representive Iranian Mountain Climbing Federation.

damavand poppy field
Mount Damavand Poppy Field
Photo A. Soltani

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06 February 2010

damavand-cost


Cost
Cost and Price Mount Damavand Iran
The cost of a trip to this mountain is mainly depended to some factors such as the timing, itinerary, number of participants in a team, the required logistic, type of hotel and the type of the tour, ie private or shared tour package.

Generally speaking, the prices are low in summer and high in winter, and as the number of participant in a tour increases, the cost per person will decrease and a short itinerary is cheaper than a longer one.

There are some other factors which may effect the cost of travel to Iran such as, visa process for some foreigners, inflation in the country which increases some costs like hotel and transpor and the permit.

There are a lot of questions and requests about the cost and price of a tour or trip to Mt damavand, it is impossible to give a prcise quotation or even an estimation without having complete info.

So to enable us to give you the best possible quotation and discuss the details, it is recommended to clarify your itinerary and the number of persons in your group, the kind of logistic you need and give us an idea about your arrival date.

Damavand Mt. Iran
Damavand Mountain Iran

Guide
Tour Guide for hiking & trekking and climbing are cheaper than high skilled guide for winter climb and ski mountaineering.

Hotel
There are many ordinary hostels and luxury hotels in Iran with a wide range of prices, do not merely rely on the guide books such as the Lonely Planet price lists , there are increases almost each year in Iran due to inflation, so make sure in advace for the latest changes, or give us an idea about the type of hotel you prefer for accomodation.

Itinerary
Your itinerary determines the price and cost of your trip, a two or three days short form itinerary are considerably cheaper than longer onse, but longer programmes such as four to five days are more easy and relaxing for ordinary people.

Number
The number of climbers in your team is also another major factor for calculation of the total cost, as the number increases, it will decrease the per person cost.

Timing
Clarify when you would like to ascend th mountain, because in winter and off season due to tough condition in the area, you need a very experienced guide, further more because of too much snow and ice, mules can not go up to the third camp Bargah Sevom 4220m, so porters should carry your gears, which will increases the costs. But as soon as the climate changes and the weather get warm, the prices decrease significantly.

Tour Private
In the private pakage tours you get the benefit of the best exclusive custom designed tours, so it is a little expensive compared to the shared tours.

Tour Shared
These tours are economy based and money matter tours to reduce your costs, but you must follow the team and there are not may options for fine tuning.

See also FAQ

Mount Damavand Iran
Mt Damavand Iran

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05 February 2010

damavand-news


News 2010
Avalanche, 4 Feb 2010
Avalanche killed at least 8 and injured 2 in Iran.
Three powerful avalanches hit the road between Shemshak and Dizin Ski Resorts on Thursday 4 Feb 2010 at 14:30, burying may mountain climbers and skiers under the snow.The area is in a high avalanche zone and there has been heavy snowfall in the area since Wednesday.

The rescue operation started by 10 teams from near by cities immediately after the accident and with a long operation they have saved 50 pepole so far and found the bodies of the eight, some other are still reported missing, seven of the victims were climbers and the member of Damavand Mountaineering Club.

Three foreign nationals skiers were among the rescued, but there is no info about their names and nationalities yet. Injured were treated at a nearby hospital and the rest were given shelter in a Dizin and Shemshak hotels.

The road between Dizin and Shemshak connects the two popular ski resorts in Alborz Mountains about 70 kilometres north of Tehran, Iran.

Unfortunately, Farshad Khalili, a geart Iranian mountain climber and ski coach is among the victims. Our condolences to his family and Iranian Mountain Climbing Society.

Names of identified Victims
Ebrahimzade Ali Akbar
Kazemzadeh Hamid
Keshavarz Akbar
Khalili Farshad
Khorasani Mehdi
Shahpari Majid
Taheri Saeid
Nadia Najafi

Damavand Winter view
Damavand Winter view

Names of Rescued Climbers
Abdolmohamadi Sara
Abolfazlzadeh Farshid
Ahmadi Elham
Amoei Atefeh
Bidrafteh Hassan
Cheraghali Morteza
Dehghani Mina
Derakhshan Sid Javad
Heydari Moghadam Hossain
Najafi Sara
Pazoki Mahbobeh
Pirasteh Mohamad Reza
Qazanfari Ali
Rajabi Masomeh
Rasoli Mina
Sajadi Sadegh
Sasan Shahrokh
Servat Peyman
Shafahi Fereshteh
Shojaei Parviz
Soltani Mojgan

Names of Rescued Skiers
Abrnejad Ashkan
Akhavan Golnoush
Arshadi Kamila
Falahian Reza
Falahian Shovan
Fathi Mohammad
Hanifi Elnaz
Hanifi Sara
Hasanzadeh Mohammad Ali
Hedayat Hossain
Hossaini Morteza
Moeini Saeid
Mohamadian Morovat
Mortazavi Amir Hosain
Pournemat Amir
Rahimi Ehsan
Rasami Sasan
Roozbehani Roya
Soltanian Amir
Tayefeh Hajilou Keyvan
Teimori Milad
Vatanpour Behnaz

سقوط بهمن در جاده شمشك - دیزین
چهارشنبه 14 بهمن 1388
در حادثه ریزش بهمن در ارتفاعات شمشك - دیزین تعدادی از کوهنوردان و اسکی بازان که برخی عضو کلوپ کوهنوردی و اسکی دماوند بودند كشته و مجروح شدند.

متاسفانه با خبر شدیم فرشاد خلیلی از بزرگان جامعه کوهنوردی و مربیان اسکی و پيشكسوت كوهنوردي ايران براي نجات شاگرد خود به دام بهمن افتاد و جان خودرا ازدست داد. به خانواده محترم ایشان و جامعه کوهنوردی ایران تسلیت عرض میکنیم. روحشان شاد و یادشان گرامی.

اسامی درگذشتگان سقوط بهمن
فرشاد خلیلی، مجید شه‌پری، اكبر كشاورز، مهدی خراسانی، حمید كاظم‌زاده، علی‌اكبر ابراهیم زاده و سعید طاهری، ناديا نجفي

اسامی کوهنوردان نجات یافته
مینا رسولی، فرشته برزا عباس شفاهی،‌علی غضنفری، مژگان سلطانی، عاطفه عمویی،‌ محبوبه پازوكی، محمد رضا پیراسته، سارا عبدالمحمدی، سارا نجفی، حسین حیدری مقدم، مرتضی چراغعلی، حسن بیدرفته، صادق سجادی، پرویز شجاعی، شاهرخ ساسان، پیمان ثروت، معصومه رجبی، مینا دهقانی، فرشید ابوافضل زاده، الهام احمدی، سید جواد درخشان (به دلیل شكستگی كمر در بیمارستان بستری شده است).

اسامی اسکی بازان نجات یافته
ساسان رسامی، احسان رحیمی، مرتضی حسینی، میلاد تیموری، رضا فلاحیان، كامیلا ارشدی، شوان فلاحیان، كیوان طایفه حاجیلو، بهناز وطن پور، سعید معینی، مروت محمدیان، امیرحسین مرتضوی، حسین هدایت، امیر سلطانیان، اشكان ابرنژاد، گلنوش اخوان، محمدعلی حسن زاده، محمد فتحی، الناز حنیفی، سارا حنیفی، امیر پورنعمت، رویا روزبهانی.
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Avalanche chalus and haraz road, mt damavand avalanche risk, high avalanche zone, risky avalanche zones, mountain road avalanche , avalanche zone damavand, avalanche warning, avalanche news winter climbing, ski climbing, down hill ski, ski mountaineering shemshak and dizin risks, alert ski and snowboard iran in winter, avalanche ski resort iran, avalanche and glacier fact, winter weather warning, winter temprature iran, climb damavand iran, weather iran tehran.

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02 February 2010

how-to-climb-damavand


How To Climb Mt Damavand
3 days climb from south face in detail

We would like to share our experience with the newcomers to teach them how to climb Mt Damavand. If you have ordinary climbing skills and common equipments and you are in a good physical conditions then you have a good chance of success, the southern face is not a technical route, it is merely a tough and long trek, in summer 2 to 4 days is usually enough for round trip. Visit also Routes.

Summer is the best season for ordinary climbers to tackle the mount, the suggested months are June, July and August, which the footpath is usually free of snow and the Weather is generally good, but there is one disadvantage, the mountain is crowded, so you need a good Timing to avoid the Crowd, Saturday to Monday are good for starting days, Please note it is not recommend to be in the area in Iranian weekends (Thursday and Friday).


Damavand Mount
Mt Damavand Iran, Summer View
Photo by A. Soltani

It is possible to ascent in two different ways:

A – 3 days Itinerary
It is recommended for all climber residence or located in Tehran and around the mountain.

Day 1 - Transfer1&2 + Trekking To Camp3
Go by car from Tehran to Camp1 Polour, change the car and by a 4WD car drive to Camp2 Base, and by 4 to 6 hours trekking to Camp3 Bargah Sevom, over night in New Hut .

Day 2 - Climbing to the Summit
Start climbing at 5 AM towards the summit , return back to camp3, rest second nigh at camp3.

Day 3 - Return
Return back from camp3 to camp1 and then drive to Tehran .

Or

B – 3 Days Itinerary
Recommended for incoming foreign climbers who wish to do the climbing as their first destination in Iran.

Day 1 - Arrival + Transfer1
Go by car directly from IKA International Airport to Camp1 Polour, just rest in Polour Hut for acclimatization.

Day 2 - Transfer1 + Trekking To Camp3
Go by car from Polour to Camp 2 - Base, and by 4 to 6 hours trekking to Camp 3 Bargah Sevom, stay over night at New Hut.

Day 3 - Climbing to the Summit + Return
Start climbing at about 5 AM, towards the summit and then return back to camp3. After one hour rest, go to camp2, drive to camp1 and then to Tehran.

South Route Map Mt Damavand
Mt Damavand South Route Map

Transfer 1
How to Reach the First Camp, Polour Hut
Tehran > Haraz Road > Polour Village > Polour Hut (2 hours)
If you travel from Tehran, use Polour Hut in Polour Village which is a shortcut and the best starting point of the south route. There is a montain resort which belongs to Iran Mountain Climbing Federation, you can use it or ask for a taxi to take you to the Base Camp ( goosfand Sara, Mosque)

Transfer 2
How to Reach the Second Camp, Camp 2 Base
Polour Village or Polour Hut > Camp 2 Base
(Persian Name: Goosfand Sara, Masjed, Saheb Zaman Mosque)
Strong cars such as 4WD land rovers and Jeeps take you to the Base Camp, (approx 1 hour). If you live in a city with low elevation. Remember this campste is not suitable for either acclimatization or accommodation in summer, because it is too crowded and too dirty. See also Warning . Start your trekking towards camp3. In summer, You can find mule and porter here.

Trekking To Camp3
How to Reach the Third Camp, Camp3 Bargah Sevom, New Hut
(Persian name Bargah Sevom Camp)
By 4 to 6 hours slow trek you can reach the 3rd Camp, do not carry heavy equipments yourself, hire porters and mule, use the footprints, it is easy to find the footpath, go slow and steady, start in the morning so you have plenty time to find the hut (or refuge) and enough time for acclimatization, use the day light only, never start at the darkness.

Climbing to the Summit
South face has a moderate climbing slop, is not technical difficult, but climbers should be physically fit enough to try it, by 5 to 7 hours climbing you can reach the summit, do not carry heavy gear to the top, it is safe to leave your heavy stuff at New Hut or your tent, only take necessary things with you, do not attempt at night, In a good weather, starting at about 5 am is recommended.

Important
Visit the Common Mistakes .

Tips for the Summit Day
- Before the kick off double check up all your necessary gears.
- If possible check the weather forecast.
- Have only short breaks during the climb, do not rest more than 5 minutes per rest.
- From camp3 upwards there is no water, food or shelter.
- Use the footprints, if you are not sure use a guide.

Food & Drink for the Summit Day
- Eat a good breakfast plus tea or coffee.
- Eat some sweet, cookie , biscuit , chocolate during the way.
- you need at least 1.5 letters of water.

Return Back
After reaching the summit do not stay too long there, take few pictures and return back to Camp3 it about 3 hours to reach the campsite.

Road Map Tehran To Mt Damavand
Road Map Tehran To Mount Damavand

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How To Climb 3 Days MDG2FEB10A
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Best Mount Damavand Climbing Experience with Local Guides

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